The Terai

To many foreigners, when they think of Nepal, the image invariably is of a remote mountainous country with its snow covered Himalayan peaks, deep valleys, and Mongoloid people quietly tilling their hill terraced farms. Yet, almost half the country's population lives in the subtropical Gangetic plains, called the Terai, that extends through the entire southern part of the country. Unlike the northern part of the country that is known for its highest peaks of the world, the southern plains are less than 100m above sea level, mostly covered with forests (which are thinning out at an alarming rate) and fertile green agricultural fields (that feed most of the nation).
The Terai will appear as very distinct from the hills in other ways as well to even the most novice visitor to Nepal. The numerous native ethnic groups that make the majority of the Terai population have very distinct physical build: generally taller, darker, and with facial features that are very Aryan, like the people of north India . They dress differently. Their languages are different. They have different socio-cultural traditions. They are very similar in their looks and lifestyles to their north Indian neighbors from Bihar and Uttar Pradesh, which is not surprising because many belong to the same ethnic groups, separated only by the modern political border into two different peoples.
________________________________________
Of Interest
The most striking thing about the Terai is itself; the sharp contrast in which it displays itself from the northern hills and mountains of the country, which are generally only a few hours away. With the exception of a couple of places, there is nothing of special interest that really stands out. And the Terai is recommended to a new visitor to Nepal more in the spirit of exposing him/her to the richness in diversity, both geographic and socio-cultural, of this country than to point out "must-sees". A day or two in passing is sufficient to get a taste of it. A Terai town doesn't really make a destination in itself, but an interesting place to drop by.
There are several towns than one can visit. While they may have their distinctiveness to a seasoned visitor, most of these towns will look the same to most: dusty roads full of people, bicycles, and rickshaws; a couple of blocks of shops that sell daily necessities to locals; unimpressive Hindu temples. And beyond these towns are empty flat fields dotted with thatched huts. It is pretty much the same everywhere.
Interesting places of Terai
• Lumbini
• Janakpur
• Chitwan
• Royal Bardia National Park
________________________________________
Getting there
The Terai is far more accessible than the hills of Nepal for the simple reason that it is geographically flat and hence roads are easier to build. The major highway, Mahendra Rajmarga, that cuts across Nepal linking its eastern region with the western region goes through the Terai. And, most Terai towns, such as Bhairawa, Janakpur, Birgunj, Nepalgunj, Biratnagar etc., are linked to this highway through 20-50km long access roads.
Regular buses travel between these towns, Kathmandu, and Pokhara daily, and cost a few dollars (US$2-US$5, depending on distance). The buses are not that comfortable, but they take you places.
There are also regular flights several times a week from Kathmandu to Biratnagar, Bhairawa, Nepalgunj, Jankpur, and Birgunj. A couple of days' advance purchase is recommended.
________________________________________
Accommodation
Being not much of a popular tourist destination, the Terai does not provide very good accomodation facilities except in the case of Chitwan. Most of the towns mentioned above do have some simple options, but they are often quite "interesting". The cost is likely to be from US$2 per night to, perhaps, US$10. Shop around, you may be lucky enough to find a decent place. Janakpur, Birgunj, and Bhairawa have better lodges than others.
________________________________________
Dining
Again, not much of a choice. You can find many Indian food serving stalls around town. There may be a few restaurants, but they are very basic. Be careful with water and other raw uncooked food items.

Tansen (Palpa)

Tansen, an ancient hill town, with its architecture strongly influenced by Newari migrants from the Kathmandu valley is waiting to be discovered by the tourists. Situated at the southern slope of the Mahabharat range; about half way from the Indian border to

Pokhara and the Himalayas, this town offers an opportunity to experience genuine Nepalese culture, away from westernized places like Thamel in Kathmandu or Lakeside in Pokhara. Old artistic Newari houses and cobbled streets shape the townscape. The town's hill, Shreenagar, allows breathtaking views of the Himalayan range from Dhaulagiri in the west to Ganesh Himal in the east.
Tansen is the district administrations headquarter of Palpa district, one out of 75 districts in Nepal, and since 1957 a Municipality. It is itself often referred to as Palpa, and its people (population approx. 13,000 in the core area) as Palpalis.
At an elevation of about 1350-m (4430 ft) above sea level the town experiences a pleasant climate throughout the year. The maximum temperature, even in pre-monsoon times, hardly exceeds 31°C (88 F) and only in December/ January the minimum temperature can fall below 10°C (50 F). The annual precipitation is about 1500 mm of which 90% falls in the monsoon season.
Of Interest
• History
• Language
• Religion
• Economy
• Tansen town
• Sights around the vicinity of Tansen
• Fairs
• Festivals
• Getting there
• Accomodation
• Dining
• Other Useful Information
________________________________________
History
The name of the town "Tansen" has its origin in Magar language, meaning "northern settlement". Magars are one of the ethnic groups of Nepal having their own language, culture and history, and are assumed to be the first settlers in this area. Around 600 years ago, Nepal was divided into several small kingdoms and hill states. In this region, they were known as "Bahra Magarat", meaning the "twelve regions of Magar". The percentage of Magar population in these districts is very high till today.
During the invasion of Muslims into India, numerous kings and clans escaped from there to the northern hill areas. In the late 15th century, they entered the Himalayan region. Some of them conquered the local kings and established their own states. The former Sen - Dynasty of Palpa, founded by Rudra Sen, had its roots in those days. Under the reign of his son, Mukunda Sen (1518 - 1553), the kingdom of Palpa reached its largest expansion and Tansen became its capital. The kingdom of Palpa spread as far as the Koshi River in the east, Gorakhpur in the south and today's Gulmi and Kaski districts in the west and north. Mukunda Sen, though unsuccessful, attacked Kathmandu valley too. After ruling thirty-five years, he resigned and spent the rest of his life as a saint.
In 1806, after a lot of political unrest, the kingdom of Palpa, which until then had been independent, was annexed into the kingdom of Nepal and was then administered by a governor, appointed from Kathmandu.Political changes in Nepal brought up changes in the administration too. Today the head of Palpa district is the CDO (Chief District Officer) and Tansen is one out of 58 Municipalities in Nepal.
________________________________________
LANGUAGE
Due to the diversity of the ethnic groups living in this area, one also finds a diversity of languages spoken. Although the main language is Nepali, in the core area the Newari community is partly using their own tongue as do the Magar people in the surrounding villages.
________________________________________
RELIGION
The main religion is Hinduism, followed by Buddhism. Parts of the population are Muslim and also a small Christian community has established itself.
________________________________________
ECONOMY
Before the major road between Butwal and Pokhara was built, connecting the plains of the Terai with the foot of the Himalayas, Tansen was an important commercial center for North/South trade (Tibet/India) and the main bazaar for the surrounding districts. With the development of better infrastructure and industry in this country, which had been molded for centuries by mountains and porter services, the importance is now shifting to the plain Terai, to new industrial centers and into villages along the new roads.
The main occupation of today's inhabitants are in small business and industries, handicraft, trade, public service, health service (United Mission to Nepal runs a big hospital in Tansen) and education. In the surrounding villages, agriculture is still of high importance.
________________________________________
TANSEN TOWN
The town of Tansen is a prosperous looking- collection of red brick houses set on the steep hillside and is among the largest far-flung Newar trading posts scattered across the hills. Though the Newar community forms one of the major communities in this place now, the place originally belonged to the Magar community, one of the most delightful ethnic groups of Nepal. Tundikhel, the large plateau in the southeast part of the town, near the bus park, is the best starting point to discover the fascinating destinations of the town. The former kings of Palpa made this artificial plateau when they needed a drilling and parade ground. Today Tundikhel is a popular gathering place for people to chat, walk and play in the afternoon. A statue of King Birendra marks the southwest corner of the Tundikhel; the building at the north side is the town hall.
Amar Ganj Ganesh Temple is a beautiful three-storey pagoda style temple. The rest house of the temple that has space to shelter thousand people has been converted into a school. On the premises of the school, there's an old small one-storey temple of Bhairab. The mask of Bhairab, which is worshipped here, was snatched from Kathmandu by Mukunda Sen, King of Palpa.

To get here, one needs to follow the northeast path from Tundhikhel.
Amar Narayan Temple is one of the largest temples in Tansen. The whole temple complex, including the temples, the ponds and the park was built under the reign of Amar Singh Thapa, the first governor of Palpa. According to a legend, a holy spring (or lake) is hidden under the three-storey pagoda style Narayan Temple. The two other temples of the ensemble are dedicated to Vishnu (to the west, next to one of the ponds) and to Shiva (to the south, next to the staircase). The remarkable huge dry stone masonry wall surrounding the whole premises is called "The great wall of Palpa". One can get here by taking a west path from Tundikhel and then turn right to get to the temple at its upper end.
Sital Pati (shady restplace), near Ason Tole, is the most popular square in Tansen. The square is named after the white octagonal shaped building, that lies in the middle of the square. The Sital Pati was built under the order of Khadga Shamsher, governor of Palpa from 1891- 1902. Khadga Shamsher, an ambitious politician, was exiled from Kathmandu after plotting against the Prime Minister.


The south corner of the square leads to Baggi Dhoka, the main gate to the Tansen Durbar, the former palace and today's district administration's headquarter. Baggi Dhoka is the gate where the chariots of religious festivals have to pass through. The fine woodcarvings on the buildings on both sides of the gate represent the fine Newari craftmanship. This Baggi dhoka leads to the palace grounds. The right route leads to the Bhagwati Temple, that was built in 1815 by Col. Ujir Singh Thapa to commemorate the victory over the British-Indian troops in the the battle of Butwal.
If you return to the Durbar grounds and continue your way to the palace itself, you will find an older, smaller palace, built in 1927. Today the Durbar houses the district's administration. There still exists a room called "the throne hall" in the Durbar's second floor.
The gate opposite to the palace leads to Makhan Tole, the main bazaar of Tansen that focuses the town's commericial activity, notably the sale of Dhaka cloth. Of woven cotton or muslin, this cloth is characterised by jagged, linear designs orginally made famous in Bangladesh. With principal colours of red, black and white, the cloth is used to make saris as well as "topis" (Palpali topi), the hat that is an intergral part of the national dress for men.
Taksar is another interesting place of the town, where for centuries the famous bronze and brass works of Tansen were produced. One can have a look at how the famous ancient articles such as Karuwa (water jug), Hukka (water pipe), Antee (jug for Nepali brandy) etc are produced.

Shreenagar hill, at 1525 m high, is about an hour uphill from the town center. While climbing this hill, one can not only enjoy a breath-taking panoramic view of the Himalayas running from Dhaulagiri in the west to Ganesh Himal in the east, but also get pleasure of passing through peaceful forest, pine plantation and decidious forest with a lot of beautiful rhododendron flowers. There is a statue of Buddha at the eastern end of Shreenagar ridge. It takes about half an hour to reach this statue. Thai monks donated the Buddha statue with the monkey and elephant. It commemorates a part of Buddha's life. According to the legend, when Buddha was meditating in a jungle for roughly three months, a monkey and an elephant served him in many ways.
________________________________________
Sights around the vicinity of Tansen
Ghorbanda - Kumal Gau (Potter's Village)
The village of Ghorbanda is on the way to Pokhara from Tansen. It is the best place to see the unique style of pottery making in Nepal. The articles produced here are traditional water pitchers, pots and "Handa" (a vessel with holes in the bottom; used for brewing rokshi, which is Nepali brandy).


Ranighat
Ranighat is the palace built on the banks of the Kali Gandaki river by Khadka Shamsher in remembrance of his beloved wife Tej Kumari. It takes about two hours to reach this place from Tansen. On the way, one has to pass through a small settlement called "Hatti Dhunga" (elephant stone).
Ramdi
A half days walk through fertile landscape shaped by terraced rice fields lead to Ramdi at the banks of the Kali Gandaki. Ramdi is a "Ghat" (cremation place) where people bring their deceased relatives for their final rites. Besides this, Ramdi is famous for its cave temples, where the

farmers from surrounding villages offer milk to protect their cattle from leopards and jackals.

Ridi
Ridi, sacredly located at the confluence of the Ridi Khola (stream) and the Kali Gandaki, is visited by pilgrims from Nepal and India who take holy bathes and worship at the temples. Additionally, like in Pashupatinath, in Kathmandu, old people
arrive and stay here to take their last breath and get cremated at the banks of the holy Kali Gandaki. Furthermore, Ridi is the locality for the biggest yearly fair of the area. The walk down to Ridi will take around five hours, rewarded by beautiful landscape. To return to Tansen, we suggest you takae a bus or jeep.
Bhairabsthan
A pleasant walk along the mountain ridge to the west of Tansen will bring you the alleged largest golden trident of Nepal. After walking roughly 9 kms, you will reach Bhairabsthan, a temple sitting atop a hillock. The temple's statue of Bhairab iis kept hidden, because it's sight is unbearably frightening and it is said that people who catch a glimpse of it are in danger of losing their liver. So even the priests worship the statue from behing a curtain.

The main days of worshipping for the common people are Tuesday and Saturday. In the yard of the temple you can see the largest golden trident of Nepal, the centre of the ceremonies. From the temple's terraces you again have a beautiful view of the Himalayan range.

Satyawati Lake
To leave the beaten track and visit the site of an important fair, Satyawati lake, a bit more effort is needed. You have to take a morning bus to Butwal and get off at "Chaubis Mile"(Twenty four miles). From there you first descend to the valley of the river Tinau and then steeply ascend through dense jungle (it deserves the name here) to the pecuilar lake on the top of the mountain ridge. The lake is said to be the home of a goddess. To avoid backtracking and
to have impressive views of the Himalayan range, you should follow the ridge to the south and then descend through picturesque villages back to the road and take a bus to Tansen.
________________________________________
Fairs
Maghe Sankranti Mela (Ridi Mela), held in Magh (Jan/Feb) in Ridi Bazaar, is the most important fair of this region. The fair, lasting three days, is well known for the sale of local handicrafts and products such as woolen blankets, wooden pots, bamboo products, sugarcane cakes, walnuts, medical herbs and a kind of dried cottage cheese.
Besides the busy trading, a large number of Hindu pilgrims from different parts of Nepal and India take a holy bath in the Kali Gandaki River and worship at Ridikesh Temple.
Satyawati Mela (Night Fair) is held in the full moon night of Kartik (Oct./ Nov) at Satyawati Lake. According to the legend an old goddess lives here, Satyawati Bajai (grandma). Today she is said to be hard of hearing, she possesses supernatural powers. Pilgrims from the surrounding hill districts and Terai attend this mela to ask Satyawati Bajai to fulfil their hopes. For that, they circle the lake three times shouting their wishes for sons, employment, wealth, death of enemies etc to this goddess. Goats and cocks are sacrificed and pigeons are set free. Mute children should drink the waters of the lake to be healed. The fair which starts in the evening, ends before sunrise, so as not to offend the goddess.
Parvas Mela is held on Shivaratri in Fagun (Feb./Mar.) in Parvas, 6kms south of Tansen.
Lalpati Mela is held on Holi in Fagun (Feb./Mar) in Lalpati in the center of Madi valley.
Rambha Pani Mela is held on Krishnaastami in Bhadra (Aug. /Sept.) in Rhamba Pani, 30 kms east of Tansen.
________________________________________
Festivals
It goes without saying that the Palpalis celebrate the Hindu and Buddhist festivals listed in the Nepali festival calendar. But there is a week of special festivals in this area worth mentioning, starting with Janai Purnima at the full moon day in August.
On Janai Purnima, Brahmin and Chetri men change their religious threads, worn from shoulder to waist. Traditionally on this day, the Gai Jatra Festival is announced for the following day.
Gai Jatra (Cow Festival) was launched by a former king of the Kathmandu valley to heal his wife from a deep depression after the death of the prince in a smallpox epidemic. So this festival combines the remembrance of the deceased with an attempt to cheer up the mourners. Families who experienced a death during the previous year form

processions through the town singing religious songs. Children of the mourning families, dressed like kings and saints, lead some of these processions. Wealthy families may even hire a choir for an impressive remembrance procession in the evening.
Huge artificial cows, made of bamboo, cloth, paper etc. are carried around, accompanied by clowns. These groups perform small ironic and satirical dramas in public squares and entertain the town.

Gai Jatra is followed by Ropai Jatra (Rice Planting Festival), when farmers of the area show the city people the pleasure of rice planting, "ploughing" the streets of Tansen while singing folk songs.
On the next day's Bag Jatra (Tiger Festival) men dressed as tigers and hunters roam around the town to caricature the favorite hobby of the old rulers.
For the Chariot Festival, where chariots of Ganesh (elephant headed god of success), Bhimsen (strongest hero) and Narayan (one out of the trinity of Hindu gods) are carried through Tansen, the town inhabitants light candles in their windows and offer flowers, fruit and money to the chariots passing through their houses.
Bhagwati Jatra marks the end and climax of the week of festivals. The goddess Bhagwati, who symbolizes power, supported the fight against the British-Indian troops. People stay in the Bhagwati temple the night through to worship, sing, dance and observe the placing of a statue of Bhagwati into a chariot.

The following morning government officials, as well as the army, police and many Palpalis make up a large procession through the town.
However, due to the topography of the town the chariots do not have wheels and are not pulled by animals, but are carried by members of a special ethnic group, the Kumal, whose usual occupation is pottery.
________________________________________
Getting There
From Kathmandu
Daily bus services (duration 8 - 10 hours)
7.00 a.m.: "Sitara bus" leaving from the new buspark in the north of Kathmandu.
6.30 a.m.: "Sajha bus" leaving from Sajha bus station in Patan Pulchowk.
5.00 p.m.: "Nightbus" leaving from the new buspark in the north of Kathmandu.
You can also fly from Kathmandu to Bhairahawa and take a bus up to Tansen. Unfortunately, there is no direct bus service and you have to change buses in Butwal.
From Pokhara
Daily bus service (duration 6-8 hours) 7.00 a.m. Tourist coach to Sunauli. You have to get off at Bartung junction and take a bus or jeep for the 4-km link road to Tansen.
From Chitwan
There are two possibilities to reach Tansen. Having made your way from the National Park to Narayanghat, you can either catch the "Sitara bus" or "Sajha bus" coming from Kathmandu on its way to Tansen (duration 4 -5 hours), both buses arrive around noon in Narayanghat Pulchowk; or take one of the several buses to Butwal (duration 2 - 3 hours) and change there for a bus to T

Gorkha
Gorkha, situated at 140km west of Kathmandu at an altitude of 1,135 meter, is the ancestral hometown of the Nepal's ruling royal family. Gorkha is only 18 km up a paved road of the Pokhara-Kathmandu Highway. A brief visit on the way to or from Pokhara would provide more insights into Nepal than one is likely to get at lakeside in Pokhara.
Gorkha's small town is perhaps the most important historical town of Nepal. From its hilltop fortess, King Prithvi Narayan Shah, the ninth generation paternal ancestor of the present King, launched his lifelong attempt to unify the independent states of Nepal, a wildly ambitious project which succeeded due to his brilliance, and the effectiveness of his locally recruited troops. The British term "Gurkha" evolved from the name Gorkha, referring to the famed fighting soldiers of the region.
Gorkha's centerpiece is the magnificent Gorkha Durbar with a fort, a palace and a temple with excellent views of the surrounding valleys, and the Mansalu range.
Of Interest
Gorkha Bazaar is primarily a cobbled street market place where by people from neighboring hill dwellings come to trade. There are a few temples near about, but not much. Yet, it is worth a visit as it provides a very good vista of the quiet charm that soaks a typical hill village of Nepal.
Gorkha Durbar is the main attraction of Gorkha, an hour steep walk up a hill from the bazaar area. It used to be the dwelling of King Prithvi Narayan and his ancestors. The Durbar itself is a humble, yet quite impressive, complex of a temple, fort, and a palace built in the Newar style of Kathmandu. The view of the Himalayan range and the deep valleys from up there is quite breathtaking.
Gorakhnath Cave, ten meters below the palace's southern side, is the sacred cave temple of Gorkhanath. The cave is is carved out of the solid rock and is among the most important religious sites for mainstream Brahmins and Chhetris of Nepal.
Gorkha is also an alternate starting point for a few trekking routes in the region. Gorkha-Trisuli is an easy three day walk along unspoiled Nepali country side. One can also walk a long day's walk to Besishahar, which is the usual starting point for Annapurna and

Manang area treks. One can also walk through Besishahar area to Pokhara in a four days.
________________________________________
Getting there
Gorkha is five and half hours from Kathmandu, four and half from Pokhara, and two hours from Chitwan. If travelling by bus, take the bus to Pokhara, get off at Abu Khaireni on the way to Pokhara from Chitwan or Kathmandu. From Abu Khaireni, take a bus to Gorkha, the ride is 21km. If you are travelling to Pokhara from Kathmandu or Chitwan, or vice-versa, you can make Gorkha a daytime stop-over. Bus fare would cost you between US$1-US$3 from Kathmandu, depending on whether you take the local bus or a more comfortable "tourist bus".

________________________________________
Accommodation
Basically, two choices. Gorkha Hill Resort is a rather expensive upscale hotel (about US$30) with a great view of the Himalayas. The fact that it is located 4km from the town makes it a little inconvenient if you don't have your own transportation. For about US$8, there is also a very basic lodge closer to the town.
________________________________________
Dining
Not much. There are a number of local eateries serving dal-bhat (the staple Nepali food of rice with vegetables and lentil soup). Gorkha Hill Resort serves decent food (primarily to their guests) for a steep US$8-US$10 price range. If you are there for a day trip, bringing your own sandwich etc. from Kathmandu or Pokhara is perhaps better.

Pokhara

Pokhara is a remarkable place of natural beauty. Situated at an altitude of 827m from the sea level and 200km west of Kathmandu valley, the city is known as a center of adventure. The enchanting city with a population of around 95,000 has several beautiful lakes and offers stunning panaromic views of Himalayan peaks. The serenity of lakes and the magnificence of the Himalayas rising behind them create an ambience of peace and magic. So today the city has not only become the starting point for most popular trekking and rafting destinations but also a place to relax and enjoy the beauty of nature.
Pokhara is part of a once vibrant trade route extending between India and Tibet. To this day, mule trains can be seen camped on the outskirts of the town, bringing goods to trade from remote regions of the Himalaya. This is the land of Magars and Gurungs, hardworking farmers and valorous warriors who have earned worldwide fame as Gurkha soldiers. The Thakalis, another important ethnic group here, are known for their entrepreneurship.

The climate of Pokhara is slightly warmer than Kathmandu with daytime temperature hovering around 15 degrees Celsius in winter and 35 degrees in summer. The monsoon season which lasts from mid-June to mid-September is very wet; in fact Pokhara records the
highest rainfall in the country. Best time to visit is between October and April.
The activities of foreign visitors to Pokhara focus around two districts known as Damside and Lakeside (or Pardi and Baidam, in Nepali, respectively). These two areas, with their strips of hotels and restaurants, are a few kilometers south-west of the main Pokhara bazaar.
Of Interest
• Phewa Lake
• Begnas lake and Rupa lake
• Barahi temple
• World Peace Pagoda
• Seti Gandaki
• Devi's Fall
• Gupteswar Gupha
• Mahendra Gupha
• The Old Bazaar
• Bindbyabasini Temple
• Museums
• Himalayan Vista
• Nightlife and Entertainment
• Around Pokhara
________________________________________
Phewa Tal (Lake)
Phewa lake, the second largest lake in the kingdom, roughly measuring 1.5 km by 4 km, is the center of all attractions in Pokhara. The enchanting lake is an idyllic playground. Brightly painted wooden boats and sailboats can be rented on reasonable cost around lakeside. The lake is neither deep (roughly 47 meters at most) nor particulary clean, but the water is warm and swimming is pleasant if you don't think about the probable pollution.
The eastern shoreline of the lake, popularly known as Lakeside or Baidam, consists of seemingly endless strip of lodges, restaurants, bookshops and souvenir shops. One of the fascinating parts of lakeside is the splendid view of the mountains, especially when the still water reflects the peaks, creating a double image.

Begnas lake and Rupa lake
The lakes are located about 15km from Pokhara at the end of a road that turns north from the highway to Kathmandu. Divided by the forested hillock called Panchabhaiya Danda, the lakes offer the perfect nature retreat because of their relative seclusion. Splendid boating and fishing can be done here.
Barahi temple
This is the most important religious monument in Pokhara. Built almost in the middle of Phewa lake, the two storied pagoda is dedicated to the boar manifestation of Ajima, the protectress deity representing the female force Shakti. Devotees can be seen, especially on Saturdays, carrying male animals and fowl across the lake to be sacrificed to the deity.
World Peace Pagoda
The pagoda is a massive Buddhist stupa and is situated on top of a hill on the southern shore of Phewa lake. Besides being an impressive sight in itself, the shrine is a great vantage point which offers spectacular views of the Annapurna range and Pokhara city. You can get there by crossing the lake by boat and then hiking up the hill.

Seti Gandaki
Flowing right through the city, the boisterous river runs completely underground at places. Amazingly, at certain points the river appears hardly two meters wide. But its depth is quite beyond imagination - over 20 meters! Mahendra Pul, a small bridge near the old Mission Hospital, provides a perfect view of the river's dreadful rush and the deep gorge made by its powerful flow.

Devi's Fall
Locally known as Patale Chhango (Hell's Fall), Devi's fall (also known as Devin's or David's) is an awesome waterfall lying about 2 km south-west of Pokhara airport on the highway to Tansen. An interesting modern legend says that a foreigner named David was skinnydipping in the Pardi Khola (river) when the floodgates of the dam were opened, sweeping him into an underground passage beneath the fall, never to be seen again.

Gupteswar Gupha
Gupteswar Gupha, a sacred cave, lies 2 km from Pokhara airport on the Siddhartha Highway leading southwest from the city. The entrance is right across from Devi's Fall and the cave is almost 3 km long. It has some big hall-size rooms and some passages where you have to crawl on all fours. This cave holds special value for Hindus since a phallic symbol of Lord Shiva is preserved here in the condition it was discovered. An entrance fee of Rs. 5 is charged and taking pictures inside the cave is prohibited.

Mahendra Gupha
Mahendra Gufa, locally called Chamero Odhaar ("House of Bats"), is the large limestone cave. Shepherd boys are said to have discovered it around 1950. A two hour walk to the north of Pokhara, it is best to bring your own torch to see the stalactites and stalagmites, although most of them have been carted out by souvenir hunters.

The Old Bazaar
Pokhara's traditional bazaar is colorful and so are its ethnically diverse traders. In its temples and monuments can be seen ties to the Newar architecture of the Kathmandu Valley. Located about 4 km from Lakeside, the market's original charm is alive and well.

Bindbyabasini Temple
Bindhyabasini temple is the center of religious activity in the old bazaar. It is dedicated to goddess Bhagwati, yet another manifestation of shakti. Worshippers flock here to perform sacrifices, and especially on Saturdays the parklike grounds take on a festive fair.

MUSEUMS
Pokhara Museum, located between the airport and Mahendra Pul, reflects the ethnic mosaic of western Nepal. The lifestyles and history of ethnic groups such as the Gurung, Thakali and the Tharu are attractively displayed. Open daily, except Tuesdays and holidays, from 10 am to 4 pm. Entrance fee is Rs. 5 and there is an extra Rs. 10 for cameras (Tel: 0612041 3).
Annapurna Museum, also known as the Natural History Museum, is located at Prithvi Narayan Campus east of the old bazaar. Managed by the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP), the museum has an exceptional collection of butterflies, insects, birds, and models of wildlife as well as samples of various precious and semi-precious stones and volcanic rocks. Open daily, except Saturdays and holidays, from 9 am to 4 pm. Entrance is free (Tel: 061-21102).
Himalayan Vista
The magnificent Annapurna panorama that's visible on the northern skyline of Pokhara is quite incredible. The main peaks are Annapurna I to IV and the beautiful Machhapuchhare (or Fishtail Mountaian, so named after its twin peaks). Besides these, you can also see the Himchuli, Varahashikhar, Gangapurna and other peaks. The mountains will probably be hidden in the clouds between April and September. A nice evening on the banks of Fewa Lake with the mountain range as the backdrop is what Pokhara is really about!

Nightlife and Entertainment
There is not much of a nightlife in Pokhara other than dining. The town shuts down by about 10:30 in the evening. Until you can hang out some of the bars and pubs that are becoming trendy in the area. Fishtail Lodge puts up an hour long nightly Nepali cultural show with dances and such.

Around Pokhara
Pokhara is the starting and ending point for many of the popular trekking routes in Nepal. Longer treks (one to three week long) such as the Jomsom trek, Annapurna Circuit, and Annapurna Sanctuary begin here. Check a book on Nepal trekking for more details on this. Otherwise, you can also visit this site Pilgrims Book House for information on trekking books of Nepal.
For those with less time, Pokhara also provides shorter (one to seven days) more leisurely treks around the neighboring hills and villages. The popular ones are:
Ghachowk Trek: two days, a circuit through Lhachowk to Ghachowk and down to Batulechaur, north of Pokhara, close up view of Fishtail mountain.
Naudanda Trek: two days, to Naudanda from Suikhet and then back through Kaski, west of Pokhara.
Ghorepani Circuit: five to seven days long, upto the Gurung village of Ghandruk village, great views of the Annapurna range, north-west of Pokhara.
Kahun Danda: day trip, north east of Pokhara, 1560m altitude.
Sarangkot: day trip, great view of the mountain range including Dhaulagiri, north of Fewa Lake, 1592m altitude.
Rupa and Begnas Lakes: day trip, 15km south-east of Pokhara, take a bus there and leisurely walk along the ridge that separates the two twin lakes.

Kathmandu Valley

The Kathmandu Valley, the capital, is the political, commercial and cultural hub of Nepal. Spread across an area of 360 square kilometers and at an altitude of 1336 meter above the sea level, Kathmandu is an exotic and fascinating showcase of a very rich culture, art and tradition. The valley, roughly oval bowl measuring 24 km east-west and 19 km north-south, is encircled by a range of green terraced hills and dotted by compact clusters of red tiled-roofed houses.

A remarkable legend speaks that the valley was once covered by a lake until the Bodhisattva Manjushri raised his sword of wisdom and sliced a passage through the mountain walls, draining the water and creating the first settlements.
The valley embraces most of Nepal's ethinc groups, but Newars are the indigenous inhabitants and the creators of the valley's splendid civilization. Not very long ago, it was said that there were just as many houses as there were temples and shrines in Kathmandu valley. Now, of course, that fact does not hold true because of the rapid urbanization and population growth in the
last three decades. Nevertheless, the valley still exhibits a living, breathing entity,a vital culture that has miraculously survived till now.
The valley consists of three fabulous cities of great historic and cultural interest. These legendry cities go by the names of:
• Kathmandu
• Lalitpur or Patan
• Bhaktapur
Beyond the urban milieu of these three ancient cities of the Kathmandu Valley, there are also villages and small towns that provide charming glimpses of rural life.
• Bandipur (in the Kathmandu-Pokhara Prithivi Highway)
• Banepa
• Daman
• Dhulikhel
• Nala
• Nagarkot
• Phulchowki
• Shivapuri
• Tika Bhairav
• Timal Narayan
________________________________________
Getting Around
Sightseeing can be best done on foot or ride a bike in Kathmandu Valley. Bus travel in the city is cheap but a little time-consuming and crowded. The cenral bus station to travel around the valley in Kathmandu city is at Bagbazar and that of Lalitpur is at Lagankhel. There are trolley buses (electric buses) that operate from Tripureshwor (near the national stadium in Kathmandu city) to Bhaktapur city. Taxis or cabs are reasonably priced, but you will probably have to bargain on the price in advance as drivers are sometimes unwilling to use the meter. There are three wheeler environmentally friendly white and green tempoes. The main station of these tempoes is at Newroad, infront of Royal Nepal Airlines office. They are cheaper and fastest means of travel around the three cities of Kathmandu valley. There are motorbikes for hire around freak street such as Thamel.
You can't rent cars to drive yourself, but you can rent a car with a driver - a trip around the valley will cost you about $40 plus fuel.
________________________________________
Accomodation
Kathmandu City offers excellent ranges of places to stay, from expensive international style hotels to cheap and comfortable lodges. Thamel is the tourist quarter of Kathmandu city. In general the lodges of Thamel provide a double room for $5 to $10 per night (depending upon your bargaining skills) with basic facilities like running hot shower facilities, flush toilets, foam mattresses and clean sheets. Then there are the so-called "hotels". Most of these are slightly more luxurious than the "lodges" with probably attached bath, carpeting, furniture etc. These hotels quote their prices in dollars ranging on average $15-$40 per night. Finally you can also stay at "luxury hotels" which are generally Over-priced, like any world-class hotel, at a range of $100-$300 per night.

________________________________________
Dining
Eating out in Kathmandu is a real joy because of the tremendous variety of restaurants to be found here. There are plenty of restaurants that offer traditional Nepalese festival dishes, international cuisine such as Italian, Chinese, Thai, Mexican, Indian, Korean and so on.
In Kathmandu, you should try Newari cuisine: the Newars (original inhabitants of Kathmandu Valley) have a very rich history of culinary art.
Since Nepal is a Hindu Kingdom, beef is strictly prohibited among both the Hindus and Buddhist. Hence it is little bit difficult to find restaurants that offer beef.

________________________________________
Season
The popular time to visit Kathmandu is August through December. Medium-weight and easy to wash cottons can be a good choice year-round in the Kathmandu valley. It is recommended that between October to February, woolen sweaters, jackets or similar other warm outfits are necessary. For months from June to August, it is recommended that you bring an umbrella or raincoat and a pair of sandals with you as these months are the rainy months in the Kathmandu Valley. Expect lot of walking even if you don't plan to trek. So it's recommended that you bring comfortable footwear: sneakers and sandals are the best.

Remote Areas

Kanchanjunga

Kanchanjunga, referred as "Five Great Treasures of the Snows", is the third highest mountain of the world that lies at the eastern border of Nepal at an altitude of 8,586m. It takes at least two weeks' walk to reach the destination, Khangchenjunga base camp. There are two
Kanchanjunga base camps - north and south, and the usual trek involves reaching either of them. It is possible to visit these both camps, but it takes a much longer time and moreover both are very difficult to cross.
This region requires a trekking permit from Department of Immigration from either Kathmandu or Pokhara. The trekking fee for one person per week for the first four weeks is US$10 and US$ 20 per week thereafter.

Upper Mustang -
Upper Mustang, an arid barren land with pockets of fertile oases, is very different from any other parts of Nepal. In fact, the kingdom of Lo share similar culture and geography of Tibet. The lifestyle of Lo, people of Lo, is also unique and to date remains untouched by modernity.

The trek to Upper Mustang requires a trekking permit from Department of Immigration of Kathmandu or Pokhara. The trekking fee is around US$ 700 per person for the first ten days and US$ 70 per person per day thereafter. You should remember to get trekking permit only through the registered trekking agencies. The trip to the capital of Mustang and back takes around two weeks and can be done by partly retracing the way in or by taking a circuitous trail through the outposts of this ancient pilgrimage.

The Langtang Region

Beyond the aforementioned "Big Three" trekking regions of Nepal, Nepal is basically a virgin territory for trekkers. Trekking off the main paths is not only possible, but can be immensely rewarding, though you need a sense of adventure and an increased ability to deal with the unexpected. The treks range from teahouses to wilderness hikes. Frequently they combine both aspects by crossing over one or two uninhabited passes.
You need extra time to get beyond the standard routes, however, as said rewards are great - not just mountain views, but increased contact with a wide range of Nepalis, and the chance to glimpse a completely different way of life.

Dolpo
The best known of the many isolated high Himalayan valleys across the northern Nepal, Dolpo preserves one of the last remnants of traditional Tibetan culture. Legend says it's a bayul, one of the "hidden valleys" created by Guru Rinpoche as a refuge for devout Buddhists in troubled times. Surrounded by high mountains including the Dhaulagiri massif to the southeast rand cut off by high passes closed by snow half the year, Dolpo's easiest access is from Tibet, where its' people emigrated from perhaps thousand of years ago.
Upper Dolpo shelters about 6,000 people, whose lives revolve around Buddhism, barley, and yaks; their villages (over 4,260 meters) are among the highest settlements on earth. A large portion of Dolpo has been set aside as Shey-Phoksumdo National Park, at 3,555 sq.km. The park shelters blue sheep, Himalayan black bear, leopards, wolves and the elusive snow leopard.
Largely thanks to "The Snow Leopard" book and Oscar nominated movie, "Caravan," Dolpo is the best known of Nepal's remote northern border regions. One needs to get trekking permit from Department of Immigration in Kathmandu or Pokhara to visit this fascinating region. Check out travel faq for more information on this.
Phoksumdo lake at 3,627m is the most fascinating part of the whole trek in Dolpo. The lake is a basin of unearthly turquoise blue ringed by rocky crags and forest, framed by snowcapped peaks.
Rara lake, the largest lake of the country, is a major destination among the treks in western Nepal. The lake, located within the Rara National Park, is perched on a high shelf, encircled by gray ridges and pine forested hills inhabitated by beers, jungle cats and deer. The trail leading to the lake was built as a horse trail for His Majesty King Mahendra's 1964 visit to Rara.
Access to Rara Lake is from Jumla, which can be reached by flight or by walking for around ten days from Surkhet in western Nepal. A trip to the lake and back to Jumla takes just about ten days.

The Langtang Region

The trek up the Langtang valley is another of those finest mountain treks. Situated directly north of Kathmandu, this region has three relatively short yet interesting treks: Langtang, Helambu and Gosainkund. The regions are usually visited separately but can be combined in as 16-day trip. Lower regions like Helambu are perfect for winter treks and in springtime this region's rhododendrons are especially beautiful.The people are a mixture of Tamang, Sherpa and Bhotia. Food and lodging are easily available along the main routes.

Langtang

Langtang, at 3,307m above sea level, extends from north of Helambu to all the way up to the Tibetan Border. It is the largest village of the region despite its small size. Its upper valley is a grazing paradise, rich in flowers and grass and dotted with stone huts used in the summer
time for butter making. Sewn in skins and exported to Tibet to flavor tea and fuel monastery lamps, butter was once the region's major industry.
It is generally a thirteen day trip, counting transportantion time and a day above Kyangjin and Gosaikund, the sacred lake devoted to Lord Shiva.

Helambu
The trek to Helambu is one that remains open for twelve months of the year. It is the most easily accessible of all trekking regions. Helambu is below 3000 meters and creates few altitude problems. The trek provides a sudden, dramatic contrast between higher and lower areas of Helambu. The higher region consists of pleasant forests, interesting Sherpa villages and offers stunning mountain views. The lower valley is comparatively dull and depressing hot much of the year The high and isolated narrow valley lies north of Kathmandu and just south of the Tibetan border. The three major areas are Langtang, Gosainknda & Helambu. Sherpa & Tamang families populate this valley; Yak-herding people are closely related to Tibetans and the natural beauty of the valley is preserved by the Langtang National Park.

This valley described as 'One of the World's most beautiful valley 'was opened to foreigners in 1950 and was one of the first to be explored as well as best regarded for it's flora & fauna, the holy lakes of Gosainkunda & delights of varied landscape of evergreen forests.

The trek starts from Dhunche, passing through Yak herds and alpine pastures of Langtang valley to Langshisa glacier, possibly up to Yala Peak, Gosainkunda & down to Helambu.

Helambu is a place of warm & friendly people mostly having Buddhist religion being different from the Sherpas of Solukhumbu to their language, culture and dress.

About 75 km. north of kathmandu, this region can be included in Langtang trek, either via Gosainkunda or across the Ganja La (5,106 m). It is an ideal trip for those who have a short time & like to combine both cultural scenes.

GORKHA
Having 5 hours of drive from Kathmandu, we overcome with a smile of people from the land of Ancient Nepal;the birth place of King Prithvi Narayan Shah - The Great, the Founder of modern Nepal.The beautiful old palace known as Gorkha Durbar with two attractive temples of Gorakhnath & Kali are situated on a hill overlooking the snowy peaks of the Himalayas.

This is a short trek provided by prettiest foothill scenery, mountain views and village life being away from the crowd.

MANASLU

This region was officially opened to foreigners in 1991. Manaslu region has been identified as a potential area for Eco tourism. The area gains its popularity by three peaks known as 'The Japanese Peaks'; the legendary mountains.

Beginning this most remarkable trek from Gorkha-Arughat passing huge and spectacular valley crossing the famous ' Larkya La ' pass up to ' Sama ' covering the unspoiled Himalayas. The attraction of the under trekked trails and High Mountan scenery is hard for the seasoned trekker to resist and this exciting trip gives an insight into both Nepalese Hindu & Tibetan Buddhist culture. A special permit is required together with the government official representative.

DOLPAJUMLA
West of Dhaulagiri Himal, the mountains do not form large impressive ranges but rather an extensive range of peaks of intermediate height. The area resembles the high plateau of Tibet with typical flora & fauna and arid landscape. Snow leopard, Blue sheep, Great Tibetan Sheep, Musk deer, Hares have been sighted. The spectacular scenery of the lake Phoksindo is the major highlight of this tour.

This section describes the trek from Dolpo to Jumla Where Lake Rara an extraordionary natural phenomenon in remote Western Nepal situated at an altitude of 3,062 m, above Karnali valley with the lovely and heart touching mountains.

DOLPO TREK

Dolpo - a place where the elusive snow leopard roams the highest ridges and where Buddhist villages thrives in cultivated valleys.

Beyond Dhaulagiri Massif guarded from the rest of the country by mountain crests by deep & narrow gorges,it is claimed to be the highest inhabited land on earth. In addition, this region lures adventures with promises of untouched natural splendor & mystical culture.

This trek is best recommended during the summer though possible during September & October.

DOLPO MUSTANG
A unique trek in the rugged regions of Dolpo & Mustang exploring the long - forbidden land. It's a magnificent trek, with countless scenic and cultural variation that deserves to be one of the classic treks of Nepal regardless of its remoteness and difficulty.

Both Dolpo & Mustang are the remote regions of Nepal with wild land of high passes on the Tibetan border seldom visited by trekkers.

The trek starts from Juphal (an airstrip in Dolpo), walking upto 7-8 hours a day crossing high passes above 5,000 m, down to the trek ending point Jomsom.

MAKALU BASE CAMP

It is an extremely wild and strenuous but the most beautiful trek & the route frequently being used by the mountaineering teams. Attempting to the world's 5th highest peak. This trek to the Far East of Nepal forms the eastern edge of Everest and most unseen & amazing scenarios to its awesome to be experieced in your life as the most challenging journey. The trak starts from Tumlingtar and endsat the same or at Lukla.

THE EXOTIC KANCHANJUNGA
Kanchenjunga, the 3rd highest peak (8,586 m) of the world is on the Far Eastern border of Nepal and was initially opened for foreigners in 1988. Being neighbored by Tibet & Sikkim border, this area with restriction is least visited though the peak offers enchanting views of both the north & south aspect of the peak.

This exotic trek leads through lush valleys to alpine pastures over the Manabarat lekh; from the tropical low lands to the high glaciers and being surrounded by the Kambachen, Jannu and Yalungkang peaks. Starting from the low land passing through terraced fields, Rai & Limbu village and forests the trek gains maximum altitude around Kanchejunga glacier and Pangpema (5,140 m) the highest point of this trek.