Thursday, May 20, 2010

Bhaktapur (Bhadgaon)

Situated at an altitude of 1401 meter, Bhaktapur covers an area of 4 square miles. Shaped liked a conch-shell, Bhaktapur means the city of devotees. Pottery and weaving are its traditional industries. The city lies about 14 km east of Kathmandu city and can be reached by public transport and by trolley (electric) buses.
Major Tourist Attractions
• Bhaktapur Durbar Square
• Nyatpola Temple
• Bhairavnath Temple
• Dattatraya Square
• Potter's Square
• Surya Vinayak
• Thimi
• The Bronze and Brass Museum
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Bhaktapur Durbar Square
The main square of the city contains innumerable temples and other marvelous architectural showpieces like the Lion Gate, the statue of King Bhupatindra Malla, the Picture Gallery, the Golden Gate, the Batsala temple and the Bell of Barking Dogs. An intriguing part of this square is the fifteen-century Palace of 55 windows. There is an entrance fee of Rs. 30 for SAARC nationals and Rs. 300 for other foreign visitors.

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Nyatpola Temple
King Bhupatindra Malla built this five-storey pagoda in 1702 A.D. It stands in a five-terraced platform. On each of the terraces squats a pair of figures: two famous wrestlers, two elephants, two lions, two griffins and Baghini and Singhini (the tiger and the lion) goddesses. This is one of the tallest and is famous for its massive structure and subtle workmanship.

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Bhairavnath Temple
This temple was first built as a one-storey pagoda but later changed into a three storey temple in 1718 AD by King Bhupatindra Malla. The temple is noted for its artistic grandeur. It is dedicated to Lord Bhairav- the god of Terror.
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Dattatraya Square
The square takes its name from the Dattatreya temple dedicated to a three-headed combination of the Hindu deities Bhrama, Vishnu and Shiva. Dattatreya square is a perfect place to experience the feel of the traditional urban layout of Bhaktapur. Set in a maze of streets lined with richly ornamented houses, the square is framed for its many ornate Hindu monasteries known as Math. The National Woodworking Museum is also housed here and the Brass and Bronze Museum is across the street.
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Potter's Square
A two-minute walk south of Durbar Square brings you to Bolachhen, also known as Potter's Square because of the many potters seen here molding wet clay into different kinds of earthenware. It has a display if fresh pottery left out to dry in the open square. This place can be approached from Taumadhi Square also. The elephant-headed Lord Ganesh is the patron of potters, thus the Jeth Ganesh temple in the square.
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Surya Vinayak
Situated in a thick forest to the south of Bhaktapur, the temple of Ganesh is placed in a Sylvan setting to catch the first rays of the rising sun. It is one of Kathmandu's most popular pilgrimage spots. It is also a good picnic spot flanked by many attractive landscapes.
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Thimi
Situated 8 km east of Kathmandu city, Thimi is a farming town with a population of 32,000. Exquisite temples and other religious shrines dot its streets. It is known for its artistic masks and earthen pots, often seen spread out on the streets to dry in the sun. Homespun cotton cloth is another specialty of Thimi.
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The Bronze and Brass Museum
The museum is housed in a fifteenth-century Math opposite the Pujari Math at Tachapl Tol. It has a rich collection of domestic and ceremonial metalwares such as inkpots, spittoons, ordinary and ritual lamps. It opens daily, except Sundays, Mondays and holidays from 9 am to 4 pm.

Lalitpur or Patan

Just across the holy Bagmati river stands another ancient city called Lalitpur. A twenty-minute cab ride from Kathmandu city, Lalitpur is a charming city which has still retained its tranquil ambience. Walking down the quiet, narrow streets of the city, you would come across traditional building, exquisite temples and tiny shops of

artists, metalworkers, wood workers and stonecutters. The city is indeed renowned for its fine craftmanship.
Major Tourist Attractions
• Bungamati and Khokana
• Patan Durbar Square
• Krishna Mandir
• Mahabouddha
• Kwa Bahal "Golden Temple"
• Kumbeshwor
• The Ashokan Stupas
• Achheswor Mahavihar
• Temple of Machhendranath and Minnath
• The Central Zoo
• Patan Industrial State
• Tibetan Refugee Camp
• Bajra Barahi
• Godavari
• National Library
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Bungamati & Khokana
Four kilometers immediately south of the Tibetan Refugee Camp in Jawalakhel are the enchanting 16th Century Newari towns of Bungamati and Khokana. These are two settlements in the Kathmandu Valley that have been east affected by modern changes and are worth a visit.


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Patan Durbar Square
The square, situated in the heart of the city, consists of enchanting melange of palace buildings, artistic courtyards and graceful pagoda temples. The former royal palace complex is the center of Patan's religious and social life and houses a museum containing an array of bronze statues and religious objects. There are three main courtyards or chowks, so named central Mul Chowk, Sundari Chowk and Keshav Narayan Chowk in the square. The Sundari Chowk holds in its center a masterpiece of stone architecture, the Royal bath called Tushahity.
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Krisnhna Mandir
Krishna Mandir is Nepal's finest piece of stone architecture. Siddhi Narsingh, a passionate devotee of Krishna, built this temple in the 17th century when he dreamed Krishna and Radha being union at this spot. This magnificent temple is a delicate, airy creation which defies its heavy material. The first storey of the temple consists of scenes from the Hindu holy book Mahabharat; the second storey pavilions are banded by friezes from the Ramayana. Atop a stone pillar in front, a brilliantly executed large metal Garuda (the bird on which Lord Krishna rides) kneels in homage.

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Mahabouddha
A little further east from the southern end of Durbar Square and then turning right at the sunken water taps lies this Buddhist monument. The temple, made of clay bricks with thousands of images of Lord Buddha engraved, is an excellent example of terra cotta art form. The terra-cotta structure is one of the fourteen-century Nepalese architectural masterpieces.
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Kwa Bahal "Golden Temple"
This Buddhist monastery is a three storey golden pagoda of Lokeshwor (Lord Buddha). The monastery, built in the 12th century by King Bhaskar Verma, is embellished with exceptionally fine woodcarvings and repousse work. Inside the upper storey of the pagoda, there are the golden image of Lord Buddha and a large prayer wheel. It is a five-minute walk west and north from the northern end of Durbar Square.
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Kumbeshwor
The five-storey pagoda of Kumbeshwor is one of the oldest temple of Patan. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. It was orginally constructed in 1392 as a two storied shrine, but later in the 17th century Srinivasa Malla added the upper three tiers of the temple. Hence this is one of the Valley's two five-storied temples (the other is Bhaktapur's Nyatpola). The two ponds here (Konti) are believed to be connected by a subterranean channel to the holy Gosaikund lake, which lies several days' walk north of Kathmandu. On the festival of Janai Purnima (usually the August full moon) thousand devotees of Lord Shiva come to worship the embossed silver sheath worn by the temple's sacred linga (phallic symbol), which is placed in a special pavilion in the middle of the tank in the hub of temple.
On the southern side of the temple complex is the single storey shrine of goddess Baglamukhi with green painted woodwork. The goddess Baglamukhi is embodied in a tiny image beneath an elaborate silver torona and canopy of snakes. Baglamukhi is considered as the wish-fulfilling goddess. Many devotees visit the temple with hopes that their wishes get rewarded and fulfilled by goddess Baglamukhi at one point of their life. The temple is unusually crowded by many devotees on every Thursdays of the weeks.
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The Ashokan Stupas
Emperor Ashoka of India visited Nepal in 250 B.C and built four ancient stupas at the four corners of Patan. The four stupas are situated in Pulchowk, Lagankhel, Ebahi and in Teta (way to Sano Gaon) respectively. These stupas give evidence to the city's ancient religious importance.
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Achheswor Mahavihar
It was founded towards the beginning of the 17th century. The Mahavihar has recently been reconstructed and it commands a beautiful view of the Kathmandu Valley. It is located behind the Ashokan Stupa at Pulchowk.
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Temple of Machhendranath and Minnath
The pagoda of Red Machhendranath was built in 1408 AD and is situated in Tabahal. For six months the deity is taken to its other shrine in Bunmati. The temple of Minnath is situated in Tangal on the way to Tabahal.
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The Central Zoo
Situated at Jawalakhel, the zoo has many animals, birds and reptiles in its collections mostly representing the Himalayan fauna. There is a beautiful pond built in 17th AD. One can go for boating in this pond. It opens daily except Mondays, from 10am to 4pm.
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Patan Industrial State
It is situated at Lagankhel near Sat Dobato in Patan. This industrial estate is well known for Nepali handicrafts such as woodcarvings, metal crafts carpets and thangka paintings. For the convenience of the tourists, there is a shopping arcade where all the handicraft products of the estate are exhibited in the shopping arcade.
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Tibetan Refugee Camp
The camp was established in 1960 under the initiative of the International Red Cross and the Swiss Development Corporation (SDC), in cooperation with His Majesty's Government of Nepal. Its main objective is to help the Tibetan refugees to do something productive and support themselves. You can purchase beautiful Tibetan Carpets in this camp.
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Bajra Barahi
Situated in a small woodland park, it is around 10 km south of Patan near the village of Chapagaon. A visit to Tika Bhairav and Lele from here is worthwhile.
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Godavari Royal Botanical Garden
Situated at the foothills of Phulchowki, this Royal Botanical Garden has a splendid natural beauty. The road from Patan City runs to Godavari to the southeast, passing through the small, old towns of Harsisiddhi, Thaiba and Bedegaun. The garden opens daily including Saturdays and government holidays.
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National Library
It is located insided Harihar Bhavan in Pulchowk, Patan. The library contains about 70,000 books, most of which in English with remaining rest in Sanskrit, Nepali, Hindi and Nepalbhasa. The library preserves some rare scholary books in Sanskrit and English dating from the 17th century.

KATHMANDU

The city of Kathmandu is a melting pot for the nations population not only today but also in the yester years. Perhaps that is the reason behind the rich cultural heritage of the city. Kathmandu with its unique architectural heritage, palaces, temples and courtyards has inspired many writers, artisits, and poets both foreign and Nepalese. It boasts a unique symbiosis of Hinduism, Buddhism as well as Tantrism in its culture which is still alive today as it was hundreds of years ago. The relegious influence can be openly seen in the city.
Major Tourist Attractions
• Hanuman Dhoka (Durbar Square)
• Akash Bhairav Temple
• Kumari Ghar (Temple of Kumari)
• Kasthamandap
• Jaishi Dewal
• Bhadrakali Templ
• Singha Durbar
• Narayanhity Durbar
• Swayambhu Stupa
• Balaju Water Garden
• Budhanilkantha
• Boudhanath Stupa
• Pashupatinath Temple
• Gokarna
• Sankhu
• Sundarijal
• Changu Narayan Temple
• Kirtipur
• Chobhar
• Dakshinkali
• The National Museum
• The Museum of Natural History
• Kaiser Library
• Asa Archives
• The Nepal Association of Fine Arts (NAFA)
• Kakani
• Lele Village
• Nagarjun Forest
• Namo Buddha
• Palanchowk Bhagwati

Akash Bhairav Temple

This is a three-storey temple situated in the main Market Avenue called Indra Chowk. The image of Akash Bhairav is displayed outside for a week during Indra Jatra, the festival of Indra (the God of Indra). The festival of Indra falls on monsoon season of Nepal.

Kumari Ghar (Temple of Kumari)
The temple or the residence of Living Goddess, Kumari, is situated in the vicinity of Hanuman Dhoka Palace. The building has beautifully carved wooden balconies and window screens. The Kumari- the living Goddess acknowledges the greetings from her balcony window. Photography is prohibited.

Narayanhity Durbar
It is the Royal Palace of present King, His Majesty King Birendra Bir Bikram Shahdev of Nepal. The Shah kings moved to this palace from their old palace in the late 18th century. The new edifice was inaugurated in 1970 on the occasion of the wedding of His Majesty king Birendra Bir Bikram Shahdev. The palace takes its name from the Narayanhiti, a famous historic waterspout situated at the southern corner of the Palace. The Palace compound is immense, surrounded by high walls and guarded by soldiers.

Swayambhu Stupa

The most ancient and enigmatic of all the Valley's holy shrines lies 2 km west of Kathmandu city, across the Vishnumati river. The golden spire of Swayambhunath stupa crowns a wooded hillock and offers a commanding view of Kathmandu city. On clear days,

one can even view a line of Himalayan peaks. The view is splendid at dusk as city lights flicker one by one, and even better when a full moon hangs in the sky.
The establishment of Swayambhunath Stupa goes back to the legendary beginning of the Kathmandu Valley.The legend says that when the bodhisattva Manjushri drained the waters of the lake to reveal the Kathmandu valley, the lotus of the lake was transformed into the hillock and the blazing light became the Swayambhu stupa. Swayambhunath stupa is a World Heritage Site. One can get to Swayambhu by taxi or bike or have a nice short walk from the Kathmandu city, leaving the hustle and bustle of the city for the quieter neighborhood on the banks of the Vishnumati river. The main gate of the stupa leads
to the steep stairs, which is indeed a traditional ancient pilgrim route. It's really wonderful to climb up the worn stone steps, 365 in all,that leads straight up to the top, where Swayambhunath's painted eyes peer down at all comers. If one doesn't want to climb all these stairs, one can go around the south side of the hill where you will find a small parking area for taxis and tourist bus.
Once one is in the site of Swayambhunath, one can explore the hillock and visit a small stupa of Manjushri too.
Entrance fee Rs.50 for overseas visitors. (SAARC nationals Rs. 30)

Balaju Water Garden
It is situated below Nagarjun Hill about five-kilometer northwest of Kathmandu City. The garden is known for its bank of 22 stone waterspouts (hiti) carved in the shape of sea-dragons. It also consists of religious shrines, fishponds and a replica of the statue of Budhanilkantha. . There is also a swimming pool inside the park.
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Budhanilkantha
Situated below Shivapuri hill at the northern end of the valley, Buddhanilkantha temple is 9 km from Kathmandu city. The temple consists of a pond in which lies a great stone figure of the Hindu god Vishnu reclining on the coils of a cosmic serpent. The huge statue of sleeping Vishnu is carved from the single block of black stone of a type not found in the valley. It is believed that ages before the two hardworking farmers (husband and wife) discovered the statue when they were ploughing their field.
Besides Budhanilkantha temple, there are other two sets of exactly similar, but smaller statues of 'sleeping Vishnu' in the Valley. One set is in the Balaju garden and the other is hidden in the old garden of Hanuman Dhoka Palace of Kathmandu city. A prophetic dream of King Pratap Malla generated the belief that the King of Nepal should never visit Buddhanilkantha temple on threat of death. He then built the similar statue in two places.
The huge massive statue is one of the finest masterpiece of art that should be seen. One can get to the temple by hike, bike, taxi or take a public bus from bus stop at Kathmandu city or catch a three- wheeler tempo to Budhanilkantha from Jamal at Kathmandu. It takes around an hour from Kathmandu to reach here. Early morning is the best time to visit the temple. The priest performs daily puja around nine o' clock in the morning.
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Boudhanath Stupa
It is the biggest stupa in the Valley. The stupa, well known as Khasti, is also known as the World Heritage Site. It looms 36 meters high and presents one of the most fascinating specimens of stupa design. There are more than 45 Buddhist monasteries in the area. It lies about 6 km to the east of downtown Kathmandu. The Bouddha Area Preservation

& Development Committee runs an information center.

Pashupatinath Temple
The temple of Pashupatinath is Nepal's most scared Hindu shrines and one of the subcontinent's greatest Shiva sites, a sprawling collection of temples, ashrams, images and inscriptions raised over the centuries along the banks of the sacred Bagmati river.

The richly- ornamented pagoda, houses the sacred linga or phallic symbol of Lord Shiva.
Chronicles indicate the temlple's existence prior to 400 A.D, but a shrine may have stood here nearly 1000 years before that. Legend says that Shiva once took the form of an antelope and sported unkown in the forest on Bagmati river's east bank. The gods later caught up with him , and grabbing him by the horn, forced him to resume his divine form. The broken horn was worshipped as a linga and overtime was buried and lost. Centuries later an astonished herdsmen found one of his cows showering the earth with milk. Digging deep at the site, he discovered the divine linga of Pashupatinath.
The temple complex has been renovated and improved over the centuries. Entrance to the shrine is only restricted to Hindus, however, one can still get the good view of the sacred temple from vantage points across Bagmati river. Across the river, one can also visit the temple of Guhyeshwori and a classic 6th century ekmukhi "one-faced" linga of Shiva.

The temple is a World Heritage site, that lies 5 km east of the Kathmandu city. One can reach there by bike, taxi or take a bus from the bus stop at Kathmandu city to Gaushala. The other option is to take a three-wheeler tempoes to Chabhil from the city. It doesn't take more than forty minutes to reach here from the city. Early morning and evening, the prime puja (worshipping) hours, is the best time to visit this magnificent temple.
Pashupatinath is also Nepal's most renowned Hindu creamtion site.
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Gokarna
Situated about ten-kilometer northeast of Kathmandu, this lovely Royal Game Sanctuary is also well known as Gokarna Safari Park. Many wild animals like spotted dear can be viewed in the sanctuary from an elephant bank. On the northern side of Gokarna is a pagoda of Gokarneshwor Mahadev.
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Sankhu
It is a typical Newari town with many fine old buildings and temples. Beyond the village, up a long flight of stone stairs, is Bajra Jogini, a historical temple with a beautiful view of the local area.

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Sundarijal
It is a famous for its scenic beauty. There are magnificent waterfalls, cataracts and rock formations. It is an ideal place for picnic requiring a short walk after the motorable road.
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Changu Narayan Temple
It lies on a ridge over looking the Valley, about twelve-kilometer to the east of the city. It is dedicated to the Hindu God Vishnu. The scared complex is a World Heritage Site. It has one of the finest and oldest specimens of pagoda architecture that is embellished with exquisite wood and stone carvings.


Kirtipur
It is a small town, situated on a ridge 6-km southwest of Kathmandu. The ancient township is a natural fortress and has a proud and courageous history. The Chilamchu stupa and the temple of Bagh Bhairav are major sights here. The city offers quaint streets lined with artistic houses and temple squares. The people are known for their skill in building and weaving.
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Chobhar
Situated nine-kilometer southwest of Kathmandu, this place is famous for its gorge. All the water of the valley drain through it. There is a small but picturesque temple of Adinath on the top of a hill. From this top one can have a panoramic view of snow capped mountain peaks.
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Dakshinkali
The temple of Dakshinkali is situated about two kilometers south of Shekha Narayan. Dakshinkali is regarded as one of the most important Hindu Goddesses. Pilgrims visit this temple to offer their prayer and animal sacrifices to the goddess. Besides, this place has been developed as a popular picnic spot.
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The National Museum
This museum is located at Chhauni near Swayambhu. It offers breathtaking bronzes and a rich collection of paubha scroll paintings. It also has an extraordinary collection of ancient firearms, leather cannons and relics of the Great Earthquake of 1934. The museum opens daily, except on Sundays, Mondays and government holidays, from 9.30 am to 3.30 PM. Entrance fee Rs.10 for SAARC nationals and Rs.50 for other overseas visitors. An extra Rs. 50 for cameras. (Tel: 977 1 271478)
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The Museum of Natural History
This museum is behind the Swayambhu stupa. The museum contains animals, butterflies and plants. Stuffed animals, birds and crocodiles are some of the main attractions of the museum. It opens daily, except Saturdays and holidays, from 10 am to 4 PM. The entrance fee is Rs. 20 and an additional Rs. 20 for cameras. (Tel: 977 1 271899)
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Kaiser Library
Collections of a single man, Kaiser Shumsher Jung Bahadur Rana (1891 - 1964) adorn this palatial building near Thamel. The repertoire of books here (over 45,000) covers as unrelated topics as astrology and law, with history, hunting, religion and philosophy in between. It opens daily except Saturdays, Sundays and government holidays, from 9am to 4 p.m. (Tel: 977 1 411318)
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Asa Archives
It is located at Kulambhu west of Nhyokha Tol, on the western fringe of the old part of Kathmandu. The archives possess an exceptional collection of about 7,000 loose-leaf handwritten books and over 1,200 palm-leaf documents. The oldest manuscript here is dated 1464 AD. Most of the manuscripts are in Sanskrit and Nepalbhasa languages. It opens daily except Saturdays and government holidays, from 11 am to 4 p.m. (Tel 977 1 263417)
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The Nepal Association of Fine Arts (NAFA)
It is housed in an old building at Naxal. The National Birendra Art Gallery here has a collection of about 150 art pieces by prominent Nepalese artists. Art exhibitions are regularly organized where paintings can be bought. It also has studios where artists can be seen at work. It opens daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, from 9 am to 4 p.m. Entrance fee Rs.25 for SAARC nationals and Rs.75 for other foreign visitors. (Tel 977 1 411729)
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Kakani
This place, 1982 meters above sea-level and located 29 kilometers northwest of Kathmandu city, is famous for its magnificent view of the Valley. It overlooks the northwestern Himalayan ranges set against the vastness of the blue sky. The holiday area of Kakani features attractions ranging from beautiful alpine scenery to the magnificent Himalayan panorama, particularly of the Ganesh Himal. Other peaks that can be seen from Kakani are Gaurishanker (7, 134 m), Choba Bhamre (6,016 m) and several other peaks One should not miss the majestic sunset that Kakani offers. A trip to Kakani along the mountain highway, Trisuli Road, is rewarding with views of green forests on one side and terraced cultivation on the other. The vehicles can go right up to the top of Kakani. It takes about one and a half hours to reach Kakani by car from Kathmandu There are frequent bus and other vehicle services from Thamel to Kaule.
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Lele
The charming lele valley lies 19 kilometers southeast of Kathmandu. The road leading to this area is at the Saat Dobato intersection along the Ring Road beyond Lagankhel. Getting there by car may be quite uncomfortable due to the many potholes along the way, but that is offset by the never-ending stretch of picturesque scenery. Along the road are some typical old Newari villages: Sunakothi, Thecho, ]nd Chapagaon. Close to the last, in a very scenic setting, is the temple of Vajra Varahi. Built in 1665, the Vajra Varahi is the most important Tantric temple of the valley. In the shrine of Tika Bhairab dedicated to Shiva in his terrible form is a somewhat abstract but attractive mural on a brick wall 3 by 6 meters.
Namo Buddha

Another interesting side-trip from Dhulikhel is to the tiny hamlet of Namo Buddha situated close to Panauti. Namo Buddha is an important pilgrimage site particularly to the Tamang Buddhists of Nepal. Since it is connected by dirt trails from both Dhulikhel and Panauti,it is possible to
hike there from Dhulikhel and return via Panauti. Much of the scenery along the route is impressive.
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Nagarjun Forest

This hill above Balaju and the road leading to Kakani and Trishuli shelters a pristine forest barricaded at accessible points by walls. The entrance is guarded and a nominal fee is charged for entry inside. This is another good area for bird watching, and the forest also harbors deer and pheasants. The vehicular road leading to the top is 37 kilometers long but ,here are plenty of shortcuts for hikers. On the top of the hill is a Buddhist shrine and on the eastern slopes are two caves, one of which is dedicated to the Buddha, and the other to Nagarjuna, a famous South Indian philosopher.
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Palanchwok Bhagwati

Some 7 kilometers north of the mountain of Panchkhaal, on the top of a hill lies the noted historic temple of Palanchowk Bhagawati.This temple is said to have been constructed during the reign of King Man Dev. The temple houses a three foot long idol of Goddess Bhagawati carved in a black stone.

Royal Bardia National Park

The Royal Bardia National Park is the largest and most undisturbed wild area of the Terai. Simialar to Chitwan but drier and more remote, it encompasses 1,000 square km of riverine grassland and sal forests. Bardia has the country's second largest tiger population, plus blackbuck antelopes, a few wild elephants, Gharial crocodiles, birds and mammals, and some rare Gangetic dolphins in the Karnali River on its western border.
You can camp near the warden's office, but bring all your supplies. Significantly, nobody's done it yet. The sole accommodations are Tiger Tops Karnali Lodge and its tented camp on the bank of the Churia river.
Getting There
As Bardia lies in the far-western region of Nepal, travelling till there via road from Kathmandu can be tiresome. Most people prefer to fly to Nepalgunj, which has an airfield. Round trip airfare from Kathmandu costs around US$ 198 and if you are going to Tiger Tops, you will be picked up upon your arrival and brought back for departure.

Chitwan National Park

For a country known for its beautiful mountains, the Gangetic flat lands of the Terai that stretches through out the southern part of Nepal provide a wholly different experience. (See the separate section on the Terai for more details.) A visit to Nepal remains incomplete without seeing the beauty of the Terai. And Chitwan is the best place to do so. The Royal Chitwan National Park, established in 1973, provides a great wildlife experience with its rich flora and fauna –read further for more details. The wildlife and the landscape are not as breathtaking as those found in Africa but still, the experience will stand out.
Chitwan is only 150m above the sea level. The place gets steamy from March-June, with peak temperatures reaching 43°C in the shade. Short grass makes Feb-May the best game-viewing season, but the autumn months are gorgeous, with Himalayan views, and in winter (December-January), Chitwan is pleasantly warmed compared to Kathmandu. The monsoon season (July-August) is intense, with pounding rain, swollen rivers, and luxuriant vegetation. While the rain isn't constant, the humidity is all pervasive.
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Of Interest
Though one can visit neighboring Tharu villages in Chitwan, the major interesting focus of Chitwan is still the exploration of the Chitwan National Park.
Flora and Fauna
The flora and fauna of Chitwan makes it a great place for nature lovers. Chitwan has over 50 different species of mammals, 400 different species of birds, and 65 different types of butterflies in its hardwood Sal forests, riverine vegetation, and "elephant grass" savannah. More than 70 different species of grass grow here.
The most famous wildlife in Chitwan is perhaps the single-horned Asian rhinoceros. A few decades ago, their number had fallen to less than 100, but recent count puts them at 400. These animals have thick armor like hide that is hard to penetrate even with a bullet.

A fully grown animal can be as tall as 180cm. In spite of army protection for these animals and severe punishment for harming them, rhino poaching is still a problem as every organ of the animal carries some (probably superstitious) value. The horn fetches about US$10,000 per kilo and is believed to be an aphrodisiac. The dung can be a laxative, the urine cures tuberculosis and asthma. The blood can help cure menstrual problems. The hide keeps away evil spirits. And so on.
Chitwan has about 150 Bengal tigers left of the one time 3000 or so. Though poaching is a serious threat, the real threat for these majestic animals is the gradual loss of its habitat. A male tiger requires almost 60km space, and a female one requires a third of it. Chitwan is simply not big enough to handle many tigers. It is rare for one to actually see a tiger, though looking for one is an interesting part of the trip.
Other wild mammals one may see are leopards, various types of deer, monkeys, sloth bear, and antelope.
Exploring Chitwan
There are several ways to do this; and if you stay there two to three days, as most tourists do, you can try them all out.
An elephant ride is the most popular way of exploring the Chitwan jungle. For about US$15, the government elephants take you around the jungle for an hour and half. There are two trips a day, one in the morning at eight and another at four in the afternoon. During peak seasons, there are long lines for tickets. Your lodge will normally get you one for a dollar or two extra. If you are staying at the luxury lodges inside the Park itself, they have their own elephants too. Note that, other than the elephants owned by these lodges, only the government runs elephant services inside the Park. Privately owned elephant rides (which go for cheaper rates) take you around the outside of the Park, where the chances of game spotting are far less.
Jeep safaris are also very popular. For US$15, they take you around for four hours. A great way to spot wildlife in areas further inside the Park which are less trodden.
Canoeing along the Rapti river is another option. With some luck you will get to see Gharial crocodiles, marsh muggers, and variety of fish. With a lot of luck you may be able to see a Gangetic dolphin. The trip is a paradise for birdwatchers with possible spotting of kingfishers, ospreys, and egrets. Chitwan is known to have 400 species of birds. For less than US$3-US$5, you can canoe downriver for about an hour, and take a three hour guided walk back.
Jungle walks through the jungle is a good way to spot game. Monkeys, birds and deer are assured; rhinos are less common (but not uncommon). A guide is recommended, and you can hire one for $3 per day (or pro-rated for shorter time). They can help you stay safe as well as point out interesting things.
For those who want a more extended experience, and are there for more than a couple of days, overnight jungle hike deeper into the jungle can be rewarding. Most do a two night hike. Designated camping spots inside the park cost US$5 per night. Guides cost US$6-US$8 for the trip. You may have to rent your camping gear in Kathmandu, because there aren't really any such facility in Sauraha itself.
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Transportation
Air
There are regular daily flights to Bharatpur, about 25km from the Park area, and to Meghauli (US$75). The flights take about half an hour. One can easily get rides from the airports to the Park area. If you plan to stay in one of the expensive resorts inside the Park, your flights to and from Kathmandu will probably be included in your package.
Land
Public buses go to Tadi from Kathmandu and Pokhara for about US$2 (twice the cost for more comfortable "tourist buses"). The ride takes about seven hours from Kathmandu, six from Pokhara. From Tadi, you will either have to cover the six kilometer distance to Sauraha on an ox cart (takes two hours to cover the distance!) or in a rented jeep for US$0.50. You can also rent a bike for about US$1 a day, or walk. On the way you need to cross a river which can be waded across during offseason, but during seasons with high water, local fishermen will ferry you across in their dugout boats for a couple of cents.
There are some who take a car from Kathmandu for the trip for an outrageous roundtrip price of US$100 (plus or minus US$50, depending upon your bargaining skills!). These are generally arranged by the lodges themselves. You can ask around in Thamel in Kathmandu. Another option is to rent a taxi in Kathmandu or Pokhara for about US$75 or less for a two day roundtrip travel. Split among two or three travellers, this can be reasonable.
River
Package organizers in Thamel will also arrange rafting trips to Chitwan. The trip normally starts at Mugling, 110km out of Kathmandu on the Kathmandu-Pokhara-Chitwan road. The trip itself is an easy river cruise that takes two or three days. The price ranges from US$30-US$75 per day. Before you pay up, shop around, bargain, and ask a lot of questions about the details of the arrangement.
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Accommodation
The choices are of a wide range but, as usual, they fall in two general categories: luxury and budget. The luxury hotels in Chitwan are inside the Park itself. They cost about US$150-US$250 per person per night, and provide you quite an exquisite experience. Swimming pool, cocktail bars, safari ambience, organized game spotting trips, orientation by trained naturalists, and all. You will love it if you have the money. These luxury hotels generally package the whole tour for their price, including transportation to and from Kathmandu, meals, park entry fees, daily activities, etc. You need to make your reservations well in advance; if you are going to be there between November and February, the busiest season, a 6-12 month advance booking will be necessary.
The budget hotels in Chitwan are all located just outside the northern border of Chitwan National Park, in a village called Sauraha. Sauraha, in the past few years, is quickly turning into another Thamel or Lakeside. They range between US$3-US$15 per night; reservations are not necessary. Competition is so intense among the dozens of hotels that bargaining is very common. If you take the public bus to Tadi, touts who serve as agents to one of these budget hotels will pounce on you, don't give in. Check the hotel out yourself, and play one tout against another to get the best rate.
Some of the more upscale budget hotels in Sauraha also organize three day packaged tours of the area for about US$75-US$150 from Kathmandu. The price includes all basic expenses including transportation, accomodation, meals, tours of the area, etc. You can obviously do the same for much less, but if you want to go on these tours, the main tourist areas in Kathmandu and Pokahara have booking agents. Shop around, and bargain.
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Dining
If you are staying in one of the luxury hotels inside the park itself, they provide you with excellent western meals. Except for the drinks and tips, the meals are normally included in your price.
Outside the Park, for those who stay in Sauraha, there are a few decent dining places in the main market place. As Chitwan becomes more and more popular among foreign visitors, more and more establishments are opening. The restaurants here don't meet the standards of Kathmandu, or even those of Pokhara, but they are manageable for a couple of days.

Janakpur

Named after the legendary King Janak, Janakpur was the capital of the ancient Indian Kingdom Mithila, the native country of goddess Sita, the wife of the Hindu god Rama and the heroine of the great Hindu epic Ramayana. Today Janakpur stands as the most cleanest and interesting place among all the towns of Terai.
Janakpur has become a great piligrimage site for Hindus today. The most sacred sites are the Janaki Mandir, dedicated to goddess Sita, the Ram Sita bibaha(marriage) mandir, built over the spot where Ram and Sita were said to be married, Ram Mandir, dedicated to god Ram and the holy pond Dhanush Sagar. Hundreds of Indian devotees come here every year to pay their respect to the goddess at this temple.
Besides the religious importance, Janakpur is also the center for the revival of the ancient Mithila art and craft. As a tradition, Mithila women have always been decorating the walls of their houses with paintings depicting figures from Hindu mythology in

abstract forms, sometimes resembling a mandala.
Getting Around
Janakpur is manageable on foot and the lack of car makes it an absolute pleasure to walk Cycle rickshaws are plentiful and cheap; good for visiting the semi-rural suburbs of Janakpur, with their village feel and many water tanks.
Getting There
By "express" bus, Janakpur is 12 hours from Kathmandu and seven hours from Kakarbhitta. An easier way is to fly directly from Kathmandu which just takes around thirty to forty minutes. Flights from Kathmandu are three times weekly; the airport is two kilometer south of town.
Accomodation and food
There isn't much in the way of tourist hotels. Hotel Welcome is the best, with rooms from Rs.45 to Rs.500 for an airconditioned suite. Food is deliciously Indian influenced, with lot of sweets and vegetarian specialities for devout Hindus, though the lack of menus may reduce you to sign language or a point and eat system. Look around the bazaar or across from the Janaki Mandir for tea stalls, sweet shops and restaurants.

Lumbini

Situated at the Terai plains of the southern Nepal, Lumbini is the place where Siddhartha Gautam, the Shakya Prince and the ultimate Buddha, the Enlighted One, was born in 623 BC. The sacred place, marked by a stone pillar erected by Emperor Ashoka of India in 249 BC, is listed as one of the World Heritage Sites. Today the holy site is being developed with international support as the supreme Buddhist pilgrimage and a symbol of world peace. The shrines and monastries that many countries have built or are still building reflect the architectural traditions of the respective countries, and thus giving Lumbini an international feel with a message of universal friendship and brotherhood.
About 30km east of Lumbini is the village of Tilaurakot which is believed to have been the location of the Kapilvastu royal palace where the Buddha grew up as the Shakya dynasty prince, until he renounced it at the age of 29 in search of enlightenment.
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Of Interest
The main attraction at Lumbini remains the Sacred Garden, which is spread over 8 sq.km and possesses all the treasures of the historic area. Today as part of the global initiative to promote Lumbini, many countries have built or are building temples, monastries or stupas near the Sacred Garden in the International Monastery Zone. Temples or shrines that have finished their construction so far are Myanmar Temple, International Gautami Nuns Temple, China Temple, The Nepal Buddha Temple and the Dharma Swami Maharaja Buddha Vihara.
Ashoka pillar, carrying an inscription identifying the holy site as the birthplace, is situated nearby the Sacred Garden. To one side of Ashoka pillar is the Mayadevi Temple which houses a bas relief depicting the nativity. Recent excavations have turned up a stone bearing a "foot imprint", indicating the exact place of birth. The Puskarni pond, where Queen Mayadevi, the Buddha's mother, had taken a bath before giving birth to him lies to the south of the pillar. Kushinagar is the place where Lord Buddha passed into Mahaparinirvana. Here are a lot of chaityas, stupas and viharas to see. The Muktabandhana stupa is believed to have been built by Malla dynasty to preserve the temporal relics of Lord Buddha. A smaller shrine nearby contains a reclining Buddha which was brought from Mathura by the monk Haribala. Bodhgaya is the place where Buddha attained enlightenment. The tree under which Buddha attained wisdom is called the Bodhi tree, while the temple marking the sacred spot is known as Mahabodhi temple.
There are also three museums in Lumbini.
The Lumbini Museum, located in the Cultural Zone, contains Mauryan and Kushana coins, religious manuscripts, terra-cotta fragments, and stone and metal sculptures. It also possesses an extensive collection of stamps from various countries depicting Lumbini and the Buddha.
Lumbini International Research Institute (LIRI), located opposite the Lumbini Museum, provides research facilities for the study of Buddhism and religion in general. Run jointly by the Lumbini Development Trust (LDT) and the Reiyukai of Japan, LIRI contains some 12,000 books on religion, philosophy, art and architecture.
Kapilvastu Museum is situated 27 km west of Lumbini in the village of Tilaurakot. The museum holds coins, pottery and toys dating between the seventh century BC and fourth century AD. The museum also has good collection of jwellery and other ornaments of that period.
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Getting there and around
Buses run regulary after every hour or so from morning six o' clock to afternoon five o' clock to Lumbini from Bhairawa, an industrial town situated 284 km to the southeast of Lumbini. They are crowded and slow: it almost takes an hour for the 22km trip.
You can hire a cab for the day for about US$15. The cost may sound little bit expensive, but it's worth spending if you are travelling in a small group. The other option is you can hire a three-wheeler tempo for about half the price.
You can also take a 45-minute flight from Kathmandu to Gautam Buddha Airport at Bhairawa: there are five flights a week for US$75.
Depending on how long you want to stay in Lumbini, a bicycle or hiring a rickshaw would be nice to go around but not necessary (expecially for the fact that one cannot find a bike for rent easily).
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Accommodation
Many just make a day trip to Lumbini from neighboring towns of Butwal, Bhairawa or Sunauli. But if you want to stay in the area, the peaceful environment of Lumbini is certainly better than those towns. The Lumbini Hokke Hotel is a spotlessly clean excellent Japanese style hotel for a rather steep price (US$80 up). The Sri-Lankan Pilgrims' Rest House is a more modest living place for about US$10; it is a little distance away from the main center of Lumbini though. The Lumbini Village Lodge is closer and provides rooms for a few dollar less, but the rooms are very basic at best.
See our online Directory of Hotels to search for hotels in the area.
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Dining
There is very little choice. There is only one restaurant, the Lumbini Garden Restaurant, which is about ten minutes walk from the center. The Lumbini Hokke Hotel (fairly expensive) and The Sri Lankan Pilgrim' Rest House (very basic menu) are the only other choices.

The Terai

To many foreigners, when they think of Nepal, the image invariably is of a remote mountainous country with its snow covered Himalayan peaks, deep valleys, and Mongoloid people quietly tilling their hill terraced farms. Yet, almost half the country's population lives in the subtropical Gangetic plains, called the Terai, that extends through the entire southern part of the country. Unlike the northern part of the country that is known for its highest peaks of the world, the southern plains are less than 100m above sea level, mostly covered with forests (which are thinning out at an alarming rate) and fertile green agricultural fields (that feed most of the nation).
The Terai will appear as very distinct from the hills in other ways as well to even the most novice visitor to Nepal. The numerous native ethnic groups that make the majority of the Terai population have very distinct physical build: generally taller, darker, and with facial features that are very Aryan, like the people of north India . They dress differently. Their languages are different. They have different socio-cultural traditions. They are very similar in their looks and lifestyles to their north Indian neighbors from Bihar and Uttar Pradesh, which is not surprising because many belong to the same ethnic groups, separated only by the modern political border into two different peoples.
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Of Interest
The most striking thing about the Terai is itself; the sharp contrast in which it displays itself from the northern hills and mountains of the country, which are generally only a few hours away. With the exception of a couple of places, there is nothing of special interest that really stands out. And the Terai is recommended to a new visitor to Nepal more in the spirit of exposing him/her to the richness in diversity, both geographic and socio-cultural, of this country than to point out "must-sees". A day or two in passing is sufficient to get a taste of it. A Terai town doesn't really make a destination in itself, but an interesting place to drop by.
There are several towns than one can visit. While they may have their distinctiveness to a seasoned visitor, most of these towns will look the same to most: dusty roads full of people, bicycles, and rickshaws; a couple of blocks of shops that sell daily necessities to locals; unimpressive Hindu temples. And beyond these towns are empty flat fields dotted with thatched huts. It is pretty much the same everywhere.
Interesting places of Terai
• Lumbini
• Janakpur
• Chitwan
• Royal Bardia National Park
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Getting there
The Terai is far more accessible than the hills of Nepal for the simple reason that it is geographically flat and hence roads are easier to build. The major highway, Mahendra Rajmarga, that cuts across Nepal linking its eastern region with the western region goes through the Terai. And, most Terai towns, such as Bhairawa, Janakpur, Birgunj, Nepalgunj, Biratnagar etc., are linked to this highway through 20-50km long access roads.
Regular buses travel between these towns, Kathmandu, and Pokhara daily, and cost a few dollars (US$2-US$5, depending on distance). The buses are not that comfortable, but they take you places.
There are also regular flights several times a week from Kathmandu to Biratnagar, Bhairawa, Nepalgunj, Jankpur, and Birgunj. A couple of days' advance purchase is recommended.
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Accommodation
Being not much of a popular tourist destination, the Terai does not provide very good accomodation facilities except in the case of Chitwan. Most of the towns mentioned above do have some simple options, but they are often quite "interesting". The cost is likely to be from US$2 per night to, perhaps, US$10. Shop around, you may be lucky enough to find a decent place. Janakpur, Birgunj, and Bhairawa have better lodges than others.
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Dining
Again, not much of a choice. You can find many Indian food serving stalls around town. There may be a few restaurants, but they are very basic. Be careful with water and other raw uncooked food items.

Tansen (Palpa)

Tansen, an ancient hill town, with its architecture strongly influenced by Newari migrants from the Kathmandu valley is waiting to be discovered by the tourists. Situated at the southern slope of the Mahabharat range; about half way from the Indian border to

Pokhara and the Himalayas, this town offers an opportunity to experience genuine Nepalese culture, away from westernized places like Thamel in Kathmandu or Lakeside in Pokhara. Old artistic Newari houses and cobbled streets shape the townscape. The town's hill, Shreenagar, allows breathtaking views of the Himalayan range from Dhaulagiri in the west to Ganesh Himal in the east.
Tansen is the district administrations headquarter of Palpa district, one out of 75 districts in Nepal, and since 1957 a Municipality. It is itself often referred to as Palpa, and its people (population approx. 13,000 in the core area) as Palpalis.
At an elevation of about 1350-m (4430 ft) above sea level the town experiences a pleasant climate throughout the year. The maximum temperature, even in pre-monsoon times, hardly exceeds 31°C (88 F) and only in December/ January the minimum temperature can fall below 10°C (50 F). The annual precipitation is about 1500 mm of which 90% falls in the monsoon season.
Of Interest
• History
• Language
• Religion
• Economy
• Tansen town
• Sights around the vicinity of Tansen
• Fairs
• Festivals
• Getting there
• Accomodation
• Dining
• Other Useful Information
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History
The name of the town "Tansen" has its origin in Magar language, meaning "northern settlement". Magars are one of the ethnic groups of Nepal having their own language, culture and history, and are assumed to be the first settlers in this area. Around 600 years ago, Nepal was divided into several small kingdoms and hill states. In this region, they were known as "Bahra Magarat", meaning the "twelve regions of Magar". The percentage of Magar population in these districts is very high till today.
During the invasion of Muslims into India, numerous kings and clans escaped from there to the northern hill areas. In the late 15th century, they entered the Himalayan region. Some of them conquered the local kings and established their own states. The former Sen - Dynasty of Palpa, founded by Rudra Sen, had its roots in those days. Under the reign of his son, Mukunda Sen (1518 - 1553), the kingdom of Palpa reached its largest expansion and Tansen became its capital. The kingdom of Palpa spread as far as the Koshi River in the east, Gorakhpur in the south and today's Gulmi and Kaski districts in the west and north. Mukunda Sen, though unsuccessful, attacked Kathmandu valley too. After ruling thirty-five years, he resigned and spent the rest of his life as a saint.
In 1806, after a lot of political unrest, the kingdom of Palpa, which until then had been independent, was annexed into the kingdom of Nepal and was then administered by a governor, appointed from Kathmandu.Political changes in Nepal brought up changes in the administration too. Today the head of Palpa district is the CDO (Chief District Officer) and Tansen is one out of 58 Municipalities in Nepal.
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LANGUAGE
Due to the diversity of the ethnic groups living in this area, one also finds a diversity of languages spoken. Although the main language is Nepali, in the core area the Newari community is partly using their own tongue as do the Magar people in the surrounding villages.
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RELIGION
The main religion is Hinduism, followed by Buddhism. Parts of the population are Muslim and also a small Christian community has established itself.
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ECONOMY
Before the major road between Butwal and Pokhara was built, connecting the plains of the Terai with the foot of the Himalayas, Tansen was an important commercial center for North/South trade (Tibet/India) and the main bazaar for the surrounding districts. With the development of better infrastructure and industry in this country, which had been molded for centuries by mountains and porter services, the importance is now shifting to the plain Terai, to new industrial centers and into villages along the new roads.
The main occupation of today's inhabitants are in small business and industries, handicraft, trade, public service, health service (United Mission to Nepal runs a big hospital in Tansen) and education. In the surrounding villages, agriculture is still of high importance.
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TANSEN TOWN
The town of Tansen is a prosperous looking- collection of red brick houses set on the steep hillside and is among the largest far-flung Newar trading posts scattered across the hills. Though the Newar community forms one of the major communities in this place now, the place originally belonged to the Magar community, one of the most delightful ethnic groups of Nepal. Tundikhel, the large plateau in the southeast part of the town, near the bus park, is the best starting point to discover the fascinating destinations of the town. The former kings of Palpa made this artificial plateau when they needed a drilling and parade ground. Today Tundikhel is a popular gathering place for people to chat, walk and play in the afternoon. A statue of King Birendra marks the southwest corner of the Tundikhel; the building at the north side is the town hall.
Amar Ganj Ganesh Temple is a beautiful three-storey pagoda style temple. The rest house of the temple that has space to shelter thousand people has been converted into a school. On the premises of the school, there's an old small one-storey temple of Bhairab. The mask of Bhairab, which is worshipped here, was snatched from Kathmandu by Mukunda Sen, King of Palpa.

To get here, one needs to follow the northeast path from Tundhikhel.
Amar Narayan Temple is one of the largest temples in Tansen. The whole temple complex, including the temples, the ponds and the park was built under the reign of Amar Singh Thapa, the first governor of Palpa. According to a legend, a holy spring (or lake) is hidden under the three-storey pagoda style Narayan Temple. The two other temples of the ensemble are dedicated to Vishnu (to the west, next to one of the ponds) and to Shiva (to the south, next to the staircase). The remarkable huge dry stone masonry wall surrounding the whole premises is called "The great wall of Palpa". One can get here by taking a west path from Tundikhel and then turn right to get to the temple at its upper end.
Sital Pati (shady restplace), near Ason Tole, is the most popular square in Tansen. The square is named after the white octagonal shaped building, that lies in the middle of the square. The Sital Pati was built under the order of Khadga Shamsher, governor of Palpa from 1891- 1902. Khadga Shamsher, an ambitious politician, was exiled from Kathmandu after plotting against the Prime Minister.


The south corner of the square leads to Baggi Dhoka, the main gate to the Tansen Durbar, the former palace and today's district administration's headquarter. Baggi Dhoka is the gate where the chariots of religious festivals have to pass through. The fine woodcarvings on the buildings on both sides of the gate represent the fine Newari craftmanship. This Baggi dhoka leads to the palace grounds. The right route leads to the Bhagwati Temple, that was built in 1815 by Col. Ujir Singh Thapa to commemorate the victory over the British-Indian troops in the the battle of Butwal.
If you return to the Durbar grounds and continue your way to the palace itself, you will find an older, smaller palace, built in 1927. Today the Durbar houses the district's administration. There still exists a room called "the throne hall" in the Durbar's second floor.
The gate opposite to the palace leads to Makhan Tole, the main bazaar of Tansen that focuses the town's commericial activity, notably the sale of Dhaka cloth. Of woven cotton or muslin, this cloth is characterised by jagged, linear designs orginally made famous in Bangladesh. With principal colours of red, black and white, the cloth is used to make saris as well as "topis" (Palpali topi), the hat that is an intergral part of the national dress for men.
Taksar is another interesting place of the town, where for centuries the famous bronze and brass works of Tansen were produced. One can have a look at how the famous ancient articles such as Karuwa (water jug), Hukka (water pipe), Antee (jug for Nepali brandy) etc are produced.

Shreenagar hill, at 1525 m high, is about an hour uphill from the town center. While climbing this hill, one can not only enjoy a breath-taking panoramic view of the Himalayas running from Dhaulagiri in the west to Ganesh Himal in the east, but also get pleasure of passing through peaceful forest, pine plantation and decidious forest with a lot of beautiful rhododendron flowers. There is a statue of Buddha at the eastern end of Shreenagar ridge. It takes about half an hour to reach this statue. Thai monks donated the Buddha statue with the monkey and elephant. It commemorates a part of Buddha's life. According to the legend, when Buddha was meditating in a jungle for roughly three months, a monkey and an elephant served him in many ways.
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Sights around the vicinity of Tansen
Ghorbanda - Kumal Gau (Potter's Village)
The village of Ghorbanda is on the way to Pokhara from Tansen. It is the best place to see the unique style of pottery making in Nepal. The articles produced here are traditional water pitchers, pots and "Handa" (a vessel with holes in the bottom; used for brewing rokshi, which is Nepali brandy).


Ranighat
Ranighat is the palace built on the banks of the Kali Gandaki river by Khadka Shamsher in remembrance of his beloved wife Tej Kumari. It takes about two hours to reach this place from Tansen. On the way, one has to pass through a small settlement called "Hatti Dhunga" (elephant stone).
Ramdi
A half days walk through fertile landscape shaped by terraced rice fields lead to Ramdi at the banks of the Kali Gandaki. Ramdi is a "Ghat" (cremation place) where people bring their deceased relatives for their final rites. Besides this, Ramdi is famous for its cave temples, where the

farmers from surrounding villages offer milk to protect their cattle from leopards and jackals.

Ridi
Ridi, sacredly located at the confluence of the Ridi Khola (stream) and the Kali Gandaki, is visited by pilgrims from Nepal and India who take holy bathes and worship at the temples. Additionally, like in Pashupatinath, in Kathmandu, old people
arrive and stay here to take their last breath and get cremated at the banks of the holy Kali Gandaki. Furthermore, Ridi is the locality for the biggest yearly fair of the area. The walk down to Ridi will take around five hours, rewarded by beautiful landscape. To return to Tansen, we suggest you takae a bus or jeep.
Bhairabsthan
A pleasant walk along the mountain ridge to the west of Tansen will bring you the alleged largest golden trident of Nepal. After walking roughly 9 kms, you will reach Bhairabsthan, a temple sitting atop a hillock. The temple's statue of Bhairab iis kept hidden, because it's sight is unbearably frightening and it is said that people who catch a glimpse of it are in danger of losing their liver. So even the priests worship the statue from behing a curtain.

The main days of worshipping for the common people are Tuesday and Saturday. In the yard of the temple you can see the largest golden trident of Nepal, the centre of the ceremonies. From the temple's terraces you again have a beautiful view of the Himalayan range.

Satyawati Lake
To leave the beaten track and visit the site of an important fair, Satyawati lake, a bit more effort is needed. You have to take a morning bus to Butwal and get off at "Chaubis Mile"(Twenty four miles). From there you first descend to the valley of the river Tinau and then steeply ascend through dense jungle (it deserves the name here) to the pecuilar lake on the top of the mountain ridge. The lake is said to be the home of a goddess. To avoid backtracking and
to have impressive views of the Himalayan range, you should follow the ridge to the south and then descend through picturesque villages back to the road and take a bus to Tansen.
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Fairs
Maghe Sankranti Mela (Ridi Mela), held in Magh (Jan/Feb) in Ridi Bazaar, is the most important fair of this region. The fair, lasting three days, is well known for the sale of local handicrafts and products such as woolen blankets, wooden pots, bamboo products, sugarcane cakes, walnuts, medical herbs and a kind of dried cottage cheese.
Besides the busy trading, a large number of Hindu pilgrims from different parts of Nepal and India take a holy bath in the Kali Gandaki River and worship at Ridikesh Temple.
Satyawati Mela (Night Fair) is held in the full moon night of Kartik (Oct./ Nov) at Satyawati Lake. According to the legend an old goddess lives here, Satyawati Bajai (grandma). Today she is said to be hard of hearing, she possesses supernatural powers. Pilgrims from the surrounding hill districts and Terai attend this mela to ask Satyawati Bajai to fulfil their hopes. For that, they circle the lake three times shouting their wishes for sons, employment, wealth, death of enemies etc to this goddess. Goats and cocks are sacrificed and pigeons are set free. Mute children should drink the waters of the lake to be healed. The fair which starts in the evening, ends before sunrise, so as not to offend the goddess.
Parvas Mela is held on Shivaratri in Fagun (Feb./Mar.) in Parvas, 6kms south of Tansen.
Lalpati Mela is held on Holi in Fagun (Feb./Mar) in Lalpati in the center of Madi valley.
Rambha Pani Mela is held on Krishnaastami in Bhadra (Aug. /Sept.) in Rhamba Pani, 30 kms east of Tansen.
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Festivals
It goes without saying that the Palpalis celebrate the Hindu and Buddhist festivals listed in the Nepali festival calendar. But there is a week of special festivals in this area worth mentioning, starting with Janai Purnima at the full moon day in August.
On Janai Purnima, Brahmin and Chetri men change their religious threads, worn from shoulder to waist. Traditionally on this day, the Gai Jatra Festival is announced for the following day.
Gai Jatra (Cow Festival) was launched by a former king of the Kathmandu valley to heal his wife from a deep depression after the death of the prince in a smallpox epidemic. So this festival combines the remembrance of the deceased with an attempt to cheer up the mourners. Families who experienced a death during the previous year form

processions through the town singing religious songs. Children of the mourning families, dressed like kings and saints, lead some of these processions. Wealthy families may even hire a choir for an impressive remembrance procession in the evening.
Huge artificial cows, made of bamboo, cloth, paper etc. are carried around, accompanied by clowns. These groups perform small ironic and satirical dramas in public squares and entertain the town.

Gai Jatra is followed by Ropai Jatra (Rice Planting Festival), when farmers of the area show the city people the pleasure of rice planting, "ploughing" the streets of Tansen while singing folk songs.
On the next day's Bag Jatra (Tiger Festival) men dressed as tigers and hunters roam around the town to caricature the favorite hobby of the old rulers.
For the Chariot Festival, where chariots of Ganesh (elephant headed god of success), Bhimsen (strongest hero) and Narayan (one out of the trinity of Hindu gods) are carried through Tansen, the town inhabitants light candles in their windows and offer flowers, fruit and money to the chariots passing through their houses.
Bhagwati Jatra marks the end and climax of the week of festivals. The goddess Bhagwati, who symbolizes power, supported the fight against the British-Indian troops. People stay in the Bhagwati temple the night through to worship, sing, dance and observe the placing of a statue of Bhagwati into a chariot.

The following morning government officials, as well as the army, police and many Palpalis make up a large procession through the town.
However, due to the topography of the town the chariots do not have wheels and are not pulled by animals, but are carried by members of a special ethnic group, the Kumal, whose usual occupation is pottery.
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Getting There
From Kathmandu
Daily bus services (duration 8 - 10 hours)
7.00 a.m.: "Sitara bus" leaving from the new buspark in the north of Kathmandu.
6.30 a.m.: "Sajha bus" leaving from Sajha bus station in Patan Pulchowk.
5.00 p.m.: "Nightbus" leaving from the new buspark in the north of Kathmandu.
You can also fly from Kathmandu to Bhairahawa and take a bus up to Tansen. Unfortunately, there is no direct bus service and you have to change buses in Butwal.
From Pokhara
Daily bus service (duration 6-8 hours) 7.00 a.m. Tourist coach to Sunauli. You have to get off at Bartung junction and take a bus or jeep for the 4-km link road to Tansen.
From Chitwan
There are two possibilities to reach Tansen. Having made your way from the National Park to Narayanghat, you can either catch the "Sitara bus" or "Sajha bus" coming from Kathmandu on its way to Tansen (duration 4 -5 hours), both buses arrive around noon in Narayanghat Pulchowk; or take one of the several buses to Butwal (duration 2 - 3 hours) and change there for a bus to T

Gorkha
Gorkha, situated at 140km west of Kathmandu at an altitude of 1,135 meter, is the ancestral hometown of the Nepal's ruling royal family. Gorkha is only 18 km up a paved road of the Pokhara-Kathmandu Highway. A brief visit on the way to or from Pokhara would provide more insights into Nepal than one is likely to get at lakeside in Pokhara.
Gorkha's small town is perhaps the most important historical town of Nepal. From its hilltop fortess, King Prithvi Narayan Shah, the ninth generation paternal ancestor of the present King, launched his lifelong attempt to unify the independent states of Nepal, a wildly ambitious project which succeeded due to his brilliance, and the effectiveness of his locally recruited troops. The British term "Gurkha" evolved from the name Gorkha, referring to the famed fighting soldiers of the region.
Gorkha's centerpiece is the magnificent Gorkha Durbar with a fort, a palace and a temple with excellent views of the surrounding valleys, and the Mansalu range.
Of Interest
Gorkha Bazaar is primarily a cobbled street market place where by people from neighboring hill dwellings come to trade. There are a few temples near about, but not much. Yet, it is worth a visit as it provides a very good vista of the quiet charm that soaks a typical hill village of Nepal.
Gorkha Durbar is the main attraction of Gorkha, an hour steep walk up a hill from the bazaar area. It used to be the dwelling of King Prithvi Narayan and his ancestors. The Durbar itself is a humble, yet quite impressive, complex of a temple, fort, and a palace built in the Newar style of Kathmandu. The view of the Himalayan range and the deep valleys from up there is quite breathtaking.
Gorakhnath Cave, ten meters below the palace's southern side, is the sacred cave temple of Gorkhanath. The cave is is carved out of the solid rock and is among the most important religious sites for mainstream Brahmins and Chhetris of Nepal.
Gorkha is also an alternate starting point for a few trekking routes in the region. Gorkha-Trisuli is an easy three day walk along unspoiled Nepali country side. One can also walk a long day's walk to Besishahar, which is the usual starting point for Annapurna and

Manang area treks. One can also walk through Besishahar area to Pokhara in a four days.
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Getting there
Gorkha is five and half hours from Kathmandu, four and half from Pokhara, and two hours from Chitwan. If travelling by bus, take the bus to Pokhara, get off at Abu Khaireni on the way to Pokhara from Chitwan or Kathmandu. From Abu Khaireni, take a bus to Gorkha, the ride is 21km. If you are travelling to Pokhara from Kathmandu or Chitwan, or vice-versa, you can make Gorkha a daytime stop-over. Bus fare would cost you between US$1-US$3 from Kathmandu, depending on whether you take the local bus or a more comfortable "tourist bus".

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Accommodation
Basically, two choices. Gorkha Hill Resort is a rather expensive upscale hotel (about US$30) with a great view of the Himalayas. The fact that it is located 4km from the town makes it a little inconvenient if you don't have your own transportation. For about US$8, there is also a very basic lodge closer to the town.
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Dining
Not much. There are a number of local eateries serving dal-bhat (the staple Nepali food of rice with vegetables and lentil soup). Gorkha Hill Resort serves decent food (primarily to their guests) for a steep US$8-US$10 price range. If you are there for a day trip, bringing your own sandwich etc. from Kathmandu or Pokhara is perhaps better.

Wednesday, May 19, 2010

Pokhara

Pokhara is a remarkable place of natural beauty. Situated at an altitude of 827m from the sea level and 200km west of Kathmandu valley, the city is known as a center of adventure. The enchanting city with a population of around 95,000 has several beautiful lakes and offers stunning panaromic views of Himalayan peaks. The serenity of lakes and the magnificence of the Himalayas rising behind them create an ambience of peace and magic. So today the city has not only become the starting point for most popular trekking and rafting destinations but also a place to relax and enjoy the beauty of nature.
Pokhara is part of a once vibrant trade route extending between India and Tibet. To this day, mule trains can be seen camped on the outskirts of the town, bringing goods to trade from remote regions of the Himalaya. This is the land of Magars and Gurungs, hardworking farmers and valorous warriors who have earned worldwide fame as Gurkha soldiers. The Thakalis, another important ethnic group here, are known for their entrepreneurship.

The climate of Pokhara is slightly warmer than Kathmandu with daytime temperature hovering around 15 degrees Celsius in winter and 35 degrees in summer. The monsoon season which lasts from mid-June to mid-September is very wet; in fact Pokhara records the
highest rainfall in the country. Best time to visit is between October and April.
The activities of foreign visitors to Pokhara focus around two districts known as Damside and Lakeside (or Pardi and Baidam, in Nepali, respectively). These two areas, with their strips of hotels and restaurants, are a few kilometers south-west of the main Pokhara bazaar.
Of Interest
• Phewa Lake
• Begnas lake and Rupa lake
• Barahi temple
• World Peace Pagoda
• Seti Gandaki
• Devi's Fall
• Gupteswar Gupha
• Mahendra Gupha
• The Old Bazaar
• Bindbyabasini Temple
• Museums
• Himalayan Vista
• Nightlife and Entertainment
• Around Pokhara
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Phewa Tal (Lake)
Phewa lake, the second largest lake in the kingdom, roughly measuring 1.5 km by 4 km, is the center of all attractions in Pokhara. The enchanting lake is an idyllic playground. Brightly painted wooden boats and sailboats can be rented on reasonable cost around lakeside. The lake is neither deep (roughly 47 meters at most) nor particulary clean, but the water is warm and swimming is pleasant if you don't think about the probable pollution.
The eastern shoreline of the lake, popularly known as Lakeside or Baidam, consists of seemingly endless strip of lodges, restaurants, bookshops and souvenir shops. One of the fascinating parts of lakeside is the splendid view of the mountains, especially when the still water reflects the peaks, creating a double image.

Begnas lake and Rupa lake
The lakes are located about 15km from Pokhara at the end of a road that turns north from the highway to Kathmandu. Divided by the forested hillock called Panchabhaiya Danda, the lakes offer the perfect nature retreat because of their relative seclusion. Splendid boating and fishing can be done here.
Barahi temple
This is the most important religious monument in Pokhara. Built almost in the middle of Phewa lake, the two storied pagoda is dedicated to the boar manifestation of Ajima, the protectress deity representing the female force Shakti. Devotees can be seen, especially on Saturdays, carrying male animals and fowl across the lake to be sacrificed to the deity.
World Peace Pagoda
The pagoda is a massive Buddhist stupa and is situated on top of a hill on the southern shore of Phewa lake. Besides being an impressive sight in itself, the shrine is a great vantage point which offers spectacular views of the Annapurna range and Pokhara city. You can get there by crossing the lake by boat and then hiking up the hill.

Seti Gandaki
Flowing right through the city, the boisterous river runs completely underground at places. Amazingly, at certain points the river appears hardly two meters wide. But its depth is quite beyond imagination - over 20 meters! Mahendra Pul, a small bridge near the old Mission Hospital, provides a perfect view of the river's dreadful rush and the deep gorge made by its powerful flow.

Devi's Fall
Locally known as Patale Chhango (Hell's Fall), Devi's fall (also known as Devin's or David's) is an awesome waterfall lying about 2 km south-west of Pokhara airport on the highway to Tansen. An interesting modern legend says that a foreigner named David was skinnydipping in the Pardi Khola (river) when the floodgates of the dam were opened, sweeping him into an underground passage beneath the fall, never to be seen again.

Gupteswar Gupha
Gupteswar Gupha, a sacred cave, lies 2 km from Pokhara airport on the Siddhartha Highway leading southwest from the city. The entrance is right across from Devi's Fall and the cave is almost 3 km long. It has some big hall-size rooms and some passages where you have to crawl on all fours. This cave holds special value for Hindus since a phallic symbol of Lord Shiva is preserved here in the condition it was discovered. An entrance fee of Rs. 5 is charged and taking pictures inside the cave is prohibited.

Mahendra Gupha
Mahendra Gufa, locally called Chamero Odhaar ("House of Bats"), is the large limestone cave. Shepherd boys are said to have discovered it around 1950. A two hour walk to the north of Pokhara, it is best to bring your own torch to see the stalactites and stalagmites, although most of them have been carted out by souvenir hunters.

The Old Bazaar
Pokhara's traditional bazaar is colorful and so are its ethnically diverse traders. In its temples and monuments can be seen ties to the Newar architecture of the Kathmandu Valley. Located about 4 km from Lakeside, the market's original charm is alive and well.

Bindbyabasini Temple
Bindhyabasini temple is the center of religious activity in the old bazaar. It is dedicated to goddess Bhagwati, yet another manifestation of shakti. Worshippers flock here to perform sacrifices, and especially on Saturdays the parklike grounds take on a festive fair.

MUSEUMS
Pokhara Museum, located between the airport and Mahendra Pul, reflects the ethnic mosaic of western Nepal. The lifestyles and history of ethnic groups such as the Gurung, Thakali and the Tharu are attractively displayed. Open daily, except Tuesdays and holidays, from 10 am to 4 pm. Entrance fee is Rs. 5 and there is an extra Rs. 10 for cameras (Tel: 0612041 3).
Annapurna Museum, also known as the Natural History Museum, is located at Prithvi Narayan Campus east of the old bazaar. Managed by the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP), the museum has an exceptional collection of butterflies, insects, birds, and models of wildlife as well as samples of various precious and semi-precious stones and volcanic rocks. Open daily, except Saturdays and holidays, from 9 am to 4 pm. Entrance is free (Tel: 061-21102).
Himalayan Vista
The magnificent Annapurna panorama that's visible on the northern skyline of Pokhara is quite incredible. The main peaks are Annapurna I to IV and the beautiful Machhapuchhare (or Fishtail Mountaian, so named after its twin peaks). Besides these, you can also see the Himchuli, Varahashikhar, Gangapurna and other peaks. The mountains will probably be hidden in the clouds between April and September. A nice evening on the banks of Fewa Lake with the mountain range as the backdrop is what Pokhara is really about!

Nightlife and Entertainment
There is not much of a nightlife in Pokhara other than dining. The town shuts down by about 10:30 in the evening. Until you can hang out some of the bars and pubs that are becoming trendy in the area. Fishtail Lodge puts up an hour long nightly Nepali cultural show with dances and such.

Around Pokhara
Pokhara is the starting and ending point for many of the popular trekking routes in Nepal. Longer treks (one to three week long) such as the Jomsom trek, Annapurna Circuit, and Annapurna Sanctuary begin here. Check a book on Nepal trekking for more details on this. Otherwise, you can also visit this site Pilgrims Book House for information on trekking books of Nepal.
For those with less time, Pokhara also provides shorter (one to seven days) more leisurely treks around the neighboring hills and villages. The popular ones are:
Ghachowk Trek: two days, a circuit through Lhachowk to Ghachowk and down to Batulechaur, north of Pokhara, close up view of Fishtail mountain.
Naudanda Trek: two days, to Naudanda from Suikhet and then back through Kaski, west of Pokhara.
Ghorepani Circuit: five to seven days long, upto the Gurung village of Ghandruk village, great views of the Annapurna range, north-west of Pokhara.
Kahun Danda: day trip, north east of Pokhara, 1560m altitude.
Sarangkot: day trip, great view of the mountain range including Dhaulagiri, north of Fewa Lake, 1592m altitude.
Rupa and Begnas Lakes: day trip, 15km south-east of Pokhara, take a bus there and leisurely walk along the ridge that separates the two twin lakes.

Kathmandu Valley

The Kathmandu Valley, the capital, is the political, commercial and cultural hub of Nepal. Spread across an area of 360 square kilometers and at an altitude of 1336 meter above the sea level, Kathmandu is an exotic and fascinating showcase of a very rich culture, art and tradition. The valley, roughly oval bowl measuring 24 km east-west and 19 km north-south, is encircled by a range of green terraced hills and dotted by compact clusters of red tiled-roofed houses.

A remarkable legend speaks that the valley was once covered by a lake until the Bodhisattva Manjushri raised his sword of wisdom and sliced a passage through the mountain walls, draining the water and creating the first settlements.
The valley embraces most of Nepal's ethinc groups, but Newars are the indigenous inhabitants and the creators of the valley's splendid civilization. Not very long ago, it was said that there were just as many houses as there were temples and shrines in Kathmandu valley. Now, of course, that fact does not hold true because of the rapid urbanization and population growth in the
last three decades. Nevertheless, the valley still exhibits a living, breathing entity,a vital culture that has miraculously survived till now.
The valley consists of three fabulous cities of great historic and cultural interest. These legendry cities go by the names of:
• Kathmandu
• Lalitpur or Patan
• Bhaktapur
Beyond the urban milieu of these three ancient cities of the Kathmandu Valley, there are also villages and small towns that provide charming glimpses of rural life.
• Bandipur (in the Kathmandu-Pokhara Prithivi Highway)
• Banepa
• Daman
• Dhulikhel
• Nala
• Nagarkot
• Phulchowki
• Shivapuri
• Tika Bhairav
• Timal Narayan
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Getting Around
Sightseeing can be best done on foot or ride a bike in Kathmandu Valley. Bus travel in the city is cheap but a little time-consuming and crowded. The cenral bus station to travel around the valley in Kathmandu city is at Bagbazar and that of Lalitpur is at Lagankhel. There are trolley buses (electric buses) that operate from Tripureshwor (near the national stadium in Kathmandu city) to Bhaktapur city. Taxis or cabs are reasonably priced, but you will probably have to bargain on the price in advance as drivers are sometimes unwilling to use the meter. There are three wheeler environmentally friendly white and green tempoes. The main station of these tempoes is at Newroad, infront of Royal Nepal Airlines office. They are cheaper and fastest means of travel around the three cities of Kathmandu valley. There are motorbikes for hire around freak street such as Thamel.
You can't rent cars to drive yourself, but you can rent a car with a driver - a trip around the valley will cost you about $40 plus fuel.
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Accomodation
Kathmandu City offers excellent ranges of places to stay, from expensive international style hotels to cheap and comfortable lodges. Thamel is the tourist quarter of Kathmandu city. In general the lodges of Thamel provide a double room for $5 to $10 per night (depending upon your bargaining skills) with basic facilities like running hot shower facilities, flush toilets, foam mattresses and clean sheets. Then there are the so-called "hotels". Most of these are slightly more luxurious than the "lodges" with probably attached bath, carpeting, furniture etc. These hotels quote their prices in dollars ranging on average $15-$40 per night. Finally you can also stay at "luxury hotels" which are generally Over-priced, like any world-class hotel, at a range of $100-$300 per night.

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Dining
Eating out in Kathmandu is a real joy because of the tremendous variety of restaurants to be found here. There are plenty of restaurants that offer traditional Nepalese festival dishes, international cuisine such as Italian, Chinese, Thai, Mexican, Indian, Korean and so on.
In Kathmandu, you should try Newari cuisine: the Newars (original inhabitants of Kathmandu Valley) have a very rich history of culinary art.
Since Nepal is a Hindu Kingdom, beef is strictly prohibited among both the Hindus and Buddhist. Hence it is little bit difficult to find restaurants that offer beef.

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Season
The popular time to visit Kathmandu is August through December. Medium-weight and easy to wash cottons can be a good choice year-round in the Kathmandu valley. It is recommended that between October to February, woolen sweaters, jackets or similar other warm outfits are necessary. For months from June to August, it is recommended that you bring an umbrella or raincoat and a pair of sandals with you as these months are the rainy months in the Kathmandu Valley. Expect lot of walking even if you don't plan to trek. So it's recommended that you bring comfortable footwear: sneakers and sandals are the best.